Winter watering is the opposite of summer watering: less, less often, and only when the ground is unfrozen and the soil is dry. Many gardeners stop watering entirely in winter, assuming rain and snow will do the job, and then lose evergreens and newly planted trees to winter drought. Others water on a routine, regardless of weather, and end up with cold, wet soil, rotting roots and split pipes. The rule for winter watering is simple and strict: water only when the soil is unfrozen and dry, water in the middle of the day when it is mildest, and stop the moment the ground freezes again.
That rule matters because plants still lose water in winter, even while they look dormant. Evergreens lose water through their leaves all winter, and deciduous plants lose water through their bark and buds. If the soil is dry when a cold, windy spell arrives, roots cannot replace that water, and plants suffer winter drought damage that only shows up in spring, when leaves emerge brown and dry or buds fail to open. A winter watering, done at the right time, prevents that damage. This guide explains when to water, how much, and what to avoid. If you are unsure about watering in your area, check your local extension service.
Why plants still need water in winter
Winter drought is a real and common cause of plant damage, and it is often mistaken for frost damage, since the symptoms — brown leaves, dead buds, dieback — look similar. The cause is different: the plant dried out, because the soil was dry and the roots could not take up water, while the leaves kept losing it to wind and sun. Evergreens are most at risk, since they keep their leaves all winter and lose water continuously, and newly planted trees and shrubs are next, since their roots have not yet spread into the surrounding soil. Our fall watering guide explains why a thorough watering before the ground freezes matters, and winter watering is the continuation of that job in mild spells.
Wind makes winter drought worse, since it strips moisture from leaves and dries the soil surface, and sunny winter days make it worse too, since sun warms leaves and increases water loss even when the air is cold. A plant in a windy, sunny spot needs more winter water than a plant in a sheltered, shady spot, and a plant in a pot needs more than a plant in the ground, since pots freeze and dry out far faster than the soil. Containers, raised beds and soil under eaves dry out fastest of all in winter, and they should be checked first in any mild spell.
When to water in winter
Water only when the ground is unfrozen and the soil is dry. Push a finger a few inches into the soil: if it feels dry and the ground is not frozen, water; if it feels damp, or the ground is frozen, do not water. Water in the middle of the day, when temperatures are at their mildest and the water has time to soak in before night frost, and never water in the evening, since water sitting on the surface overnight freezes and can damage roots and stems. Never water frozen soil, since water will not soak in and will pool or run off instead, and never water when a hard frost is forecast for that night, since wet soil and wet leaves freeze harder than dry ones.
In mild zones, where the ground rarely freezes, watering continues through winter as needed, though at a much lower rate than in summer. In zones 11 to 13, which are frost-free and keep growing year-round, watering continues through winter much as it does the rest of the year, adjusted for rain and temperature — see the zone 11 winter gardening guide. In cold zones, winter watering means a watering in a mild spell when the ground has thawed, and then nothing again until the next thaw. Use the watering calculator to work out a starting amount, but the finger test and the state of the ground are the final check.
What to water in winter
Prioritise evergreens, newly planted trees and shrubs, and containers. Evergreens such as rhododendron, holly, box and conifers lose water all winter, and broadleaf evergreens are particularly vulnerable to winter drying. Water them thoroughly in a mild spell, soaking the root zone, and mulch around them to hold moisture — see our fall mulching guide and mulch types guides. Newly planted trees and shrubs, which were planted in fall or winter and have not yet established, need watering in any mild, dry spell, since their small root balls dry out quickly. Our winter planting guide covers planting in winter.
Containers need checking regularly in winter, since pots freeze and dry out far faster than the ground. Water pots in a mild spell when the compost is dry, and raise them off the ground so excess water drains away rather than pooling and freezing. Houseplants need less water in winter than in summer, since light levels are low and growth is slow, but they still need water when the compost is dry — see our fall houseplant care guide for the indoor rules. Lawns that are dormant need no watering in winter, and established deciduous trees and shrubs need little, since they have no leaves to lose water through. Our winter lawn care guide covers lawns through winter.
How much to water in winter
Water deeply and slowly, so it soaks into the root zone rather than running off the surface, and water less often than in summer. A deep watering that soaks the top several inches of soil is far better than a light sprinkle, which only wets the surface and freezes overnight. Water at the base of the plant, not overhead, so leaves stay dry, and let the soil dry a little between waterings, since cold, wet soil invites root rot. Our root rot treatment guide explains how hard root rot is to fix once it starts, and it is a particular risk in winter, when cold soil holds less oxygen and roots sitting in water can rot.
Do not overwater in winter. Established plants in damp soil need nothing, and a plant that is watered on a routine in winter, regardless of soil moisture, is more likely to suffer from rot than from drought. Check the soil before every watering, and if in doubt, do not water. A plant that is a little dry in winter is safer than a plant that is wet and cold, and most established plants will cope with a dry spell in winter far better than they would in summer.
Pipes, hoses and frozen water
Winter watering needs care with water itself, since frozen water splits pipes, taps and hoses. Drain hoses and store them under cover before hard frost, shut off outdoor taps and drain the pipes leading to them, and drain irrigation systems before winter. If you need to water in winter, use a watering can filled from an indoor tap rather than a hose left outside, since a hose left full of water will split in the first hard frost. Our fall watering guide covers draining water systems in fall.
If a tap or pipe has frozen, do not force it or use a naked flame to thaw it. Let it thaw naturally, or use warm water poured over the pipe, and check for splits once it has thawed. Insulate outdoor taps and exposed pipes with lagging, and keep a watering can indoors so it is ready for a mild spell. If you are unsure about protecting water systems in your area, check your local extension service.
Frequently asked questions
Should I water in winter?
Yes, but only when the ground is unfrozen and the soil is dry. Water in the middle of the day, water deeply at the base of the plant, and prioritise evergreens, new plantings and containers.
When should I not water in winter?
When the ground is frozen, when the soil is already damp, when a hard frost is forecast for that night, and in the evening. Water on frozen soil will not soak in and will pool or run off.
Do evergreens need watering in winter?
Yes, evergreens lose water through their leaves all winter, so they need watering in mild spells when the soil is dry. Broadleaf evergreens are particularly vulnerable to winter drying.
How do I water containers in winter?
Check pots regularly, water in a mild spell when the compost is dry, and raise pots off the ground so excess water drains away. Pots freeze and dry out far faster than the ground.
What happens if I water frozen soil?
The water will not soak in, it will pool or run off, and it can freeze on the surface and damage roots and stems. Wait for a thaw, then water. If you are unsure, check your local extension service.