Fall is moving season for houseplants. Plants that spent summer outdoors — or on a sunny windowsill with the windows open — need to come inside before cold nights damage them, and plants that live indoors all year need their care adjusted as light levels drop and heating comes on. The shift from outdoor summer to indoor winter is the most stressful change of the year for a houseplant, and the plants that suffer most are the ones brought in too late, watered as if it were still summer, or put in a dark corner and forgotten. A careful move indoors, a pest check, and a lighter watering and feeding routine will carry most houseplants through fall and winter in good shape.

The fall houseplant routine is: bring in before frost, inspect for pests, clean the leaves, find the brightest spot, water less, stop feeding, and watch humidity. This guide works through each step, explains which plants need what, and covers the mistakes that kill houseplants in fall. If you are unsure about a houseplant in your area, check your local extension service or a local nursery for advice.

When to bring plants indoors

Bring tender plants indoors before the first frost, and bring most houseplants in while night temperatures are still mild, rather than waiting for a cold snap. Tropical plants such as monstera, philodendron and calathea are damaged by cold well before frost, so they should come in early, while night temperatures are still comfortable. Plants that are hardier, such as some succulents and cacti, can stay out longer, but they should still come in before hard frost. Our fall frost protection guide explains frost timing, and the frost date calculator gives average first frost dates by zone, though these are averages and ranges only.

Do not wait until the night frost is forecast and then rush plants in all at once. Bring them in over a week or two, starting with the most tender, and give each plant a check as you bring it in. If a plant has been in a shady spot outdoors, move it to a bright spot indoors gradually, since a sudden move from shade to a sunny windowsill can scorch leaves. If a plant has grown large over summer, prune it lightly before bringing it in, so it fits its indoor space — see our fall pruning guide for the method, and our fertilizing houseplants guide for the feeding rules that change in fall.

Inspecting for pests before bringing plants in

Every plant coming indoors should be inspected for pests, since a single infested plant can spread pests to a whole indoor collection. Check the undersides of leaves, the stems, and the soil surface for aphids, mealybugs, scale, spider mites and whiteflies. Aphids cluster on tender new growth — see our aphids control guide. Mealybugs look like small white cotton-wool blobs in leaf joints — see our mealybugs on plants guide. Scale insects look like small brown bumps on stems — see our scale insects on plants guide. Spider mites make fine webbing on leaf undersides — see our spider mites on plants guide. Fungus gnats hover around damp compost — see our fungus gnats guide.

If you find pests, treat the plant before bringing it in, and isolate it from other houseplants for a couple of weeks after bringing it in, so any pests you missed do not spread. Wash the leaves with a damp cloth or a gentle spray of water, which removes many pests and also removes dust that blocks light. Check the pot too: slugs, vine weevil grubs and other pests can hide in compost and under pots, so look under the pot and in the drainage holes. Our fall pest control guide covers the wider fall pest routine, and our pest identifier helper can help identify an unknown pest.

Watering less and stopping feeding in fall

Houseplants need less water in fall, because light levels drop, growth slows, and evaporation falls. A plant that needed watering twice a week in summer may need it only once a week or less in fall, and overwatering in fall is the most common cause of houseplant death — cold, wet compost invites root rot, and our root rot treatment guide explains how hard that is to fix. Check the compost before watering: push a finger an inch or two into the compost, and water only if it feels dry at that depth. Water thoroughly when you do water, letting excess drain away, and empty saucers so plants are not sitting in water. Our fall watering guide covers the general fall watering rules.

Stop feeding houseplants in fall, and do not feed again until spring, when growth resumes. Feeding a plant that is not growing pushes soft, weak growth that is vulnerable to pests and disease, and fertiliser salts can build up in compost that is not being flushed by regular watering. Our fertilizing houseplants guide explains the feeding calendar. Do not repot houseplants in fall unless they are pot-bound and struggling, since repotting disturbs roots at a time when the plant cannot regrow them quickly; repotting is a spring job for most houseplants. If you do need to repot, use fresh compost and a pot only slightly larger than the old one, and water lightly afterwards.

Light, humidity and position indoors

Light is the biggest change for houseplants in fall. Days shorten, the sun is lower, and a spot that was bright in summer may be dim by November. Move plants to the brightest spots you have — a south-facing windowsill in the northern hemisphere, or the brightest window available — and clean the windows, since dirty glass cuts light significantly. Rotate plants regularly so they grow evenly rather than leaning towards the light, and wipe leaves clean of dust, which blocks light. Plants that need high light, such as succulents and cacti, should get the brightest spot, while plants that prefer shade should be kept out of direct sun, which can scorch them even in fall.

Heating makes indoor air dry in fall and winter, and many houseplants suffer from low humidity. Tropical plants in particular like humid air, and dry air causes brown leaf tips and leaf drop. Group plants together to raise humidity around them, stand pots on trays of pebbles and water, or use a humidifier in the room. Do not mist as a routine, since misting wets leaves and can invite disease in cool conditions, and it raises humidity only briefly. Keep plants away from radiators, hot air vents and cold draughts from doors and windows, since sudden temperature changes stress them. A stable, bright, draught-free spot is what most houseplants want in fall.

Common fall houseplant problems

Yellow leaves in fall are often a sign of overwatering, especially if the compost is wet and the leaves are soft. Let the compost dry out before watering again, and check drainage. Leaf drop can be caused by the shock of moving indoors, by low light, or by cold draughts, and it often settles once the plant adjusts. Brown leaf tips usually mean dry air or salts building up in the compost, and flushing the compost with clean water and raising humidity helps. Leggy growth means the plant is short of light, and moving it to a brighter spot is the fix — do not feed it to make it grow faster, since that makes legginess worse.

Pests that appear indoors in fall are often pests that came in with the plant, so the pre-move inspection matters more than any treatment afterwards. If pests do appear, isolate the plant, wash the leaves, and treat with a method suited to the pest — our guides to aphids control, mealybugs on plants, spider mites on plants and fungus gnats cover the main indoor pests. Do not spray houseplants with broad-spectrum insecticide indoors as a routine, since it harms the people and pets in the house as well as the pests. Check your local extension service if a houseplant problem persists.

Frequently asked questions

When should I bring houseplants indoors in fall?

Before the first frost, and earlier for tropical plants that are damaged by cold well before frost. Bring them in over a week or two, starting with the most tender, rather than all at once on a cold night.

How do I check houseplants for pests before bringing them in?

Check leaf undersides, stems and soil for aphids, mealybugs, scale, spider mites and fungus gnats. Wash leaves, isolate the plant for a couple of weeks, and treat any pests before they spread.

Should I water houseplants less in fall?

Yes. Light levels drop and growth slows, so plants need less water. Check the compost with your finger and water only when it feels dry an inch or two down. Overwatering is the most common cause of houseplant death in fall.

Should I feed houseplants in fall?

No. Stop feeding in fall and do not feed again until spring, when growth resumes. Feeding a plant that is not growing pushes weak growth and lets salts build up in the compost.

Why are my houseplant leaves turning yellow in fall?

Often overwatering, or the shock of moving indoors, low light, or cold draughts. Check the compost, move the plant to a brighter, draught-free spot, and be patient while it adjusts. If you are unsure, check your local extension service.

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