A lawn in winter mostly needs to be left alone, and that is the hardest advice for keen gardeners to follow. Grass grows slowly or not at all in cold weather, and a lawn that is walked on, mown or fed in the wrong conditions will show the damage for months. But leaving it alone does not mean ignoring it: the last mow of autumn, clearing leaves, keeping off frosty grass, and dealing with moss and drainage are all winter jobs, and doing them well is what makes a lawn recover quickly in spring. This guide explains what winter lawn care really involves, and what to avoid.
The first thing to understand is that grass in winter is dormant or nearly so, not dead. The green top may look tired, brown patches may appear, and growth stops, but the roots and crowns are alive underground, waiting for warmth. Anything that damages the crowns in winter — walking on frozen grass, which snaps the blades and bruises the crowns, or compacting wet soil, which squeezes the air out — will show as dead patches in spring. The lawn's job in winter is to survive, and your job is to help it do that with as little interference as possible.
The last mow and autumn preparation
Winter lawn care really starts in autumn, with the last mow. Keep mowing while the grass is growing, but raise the cutting height for the last few cuts, leaving the grass a little longer — around 5 cm or a little more for most lawns — because longer grass protects the crowns and roots through winter and shades out some weeds. Do not scalp the lawn short before winter in the hope that it will stay tidy: short grass is more vulnerable to frost, drought and wear. Give the mower a final clean and, if it is a petrol mower, follow the maker's instructions for winter storage, because a mower that is put away dirty and damp will be harder to start in spring.
Clear leaves off the lawn regularly through autumn and into winter. A thick layer of leaves left on grass smothers it, keeps it wet, and encourages disease, and by spring there will be yellow, dead patches underneath. Rake or mow leaves up — a mower with a collection box chops them at the same time — and put them on the compost heap or in a leaf mould pile. Our leaf mulch guide covers what to do with the leaves you collect. Also clear sticks, toys and anything else that sits on the lawn all winter, because anything that covers grass for weeks will kill it.
What not to do in winter
Do not walk on the lawn when it is frosty or frozen. Frosty grass is brittle, and footsteps snap the blades and bruise the crowns, leaving brown footprints that last until spring. If you need to cross the lawn on a frosty morning, use a path or lay a board to walk on. Do not walk on it when it is waterlogged either: wet soil compacts easily underfoot, and compacted soil is the main cause of moss and poor drainage. Keep children, pets and heavy traffic off the wettest areas if you can, and accept that a lawn used all winter will look worn by spring — it will recover if the soil is not compacted.
Do not mow a frosty or wet lawn, and do not mow when the grass is not growing. Mowing frozen grass damages it, and mowing wet grass clogs the mower and tears the blades. If there is a mild spell and the grass has grown noticeably, you can mow on a dry day with the blades set high, but in most temperate zones the lawn will not need mowing from late autumn until early spring. Do not feed the lawn in winter: grass is not growing, so it cannot use the feed, and fertiliser applied in winter is washed away by rain, which wastes money and can pollute waterways. Feeding is a spring and autumn job, not a winter one. If you are unsure about feeding or treatment in your area, check your local extension service for advice.
Moss, worm casts and drainage
Moss is the most common winter lawn complaint, and it is usually a symptom, not the problem itself. Moss thrives where grass is weak: in shade, in wet and compacted soil, and where the soil is acidic or low in nutrients. Treating the moss without fixing the cause means it comes back. In winter, you can rake moss lightly on a dry day, but the real fix comes in spring and autumn — improving drainage, aerating compacted soil, liming if a soil test shows the soil is acidic, and overseeding bare patches. Our soil pH testing guide explains how to check acidity before adding lime, and the soil drainage improvement guide covers the drainage side. Do not apply moss killer in the depths of winter and expect a quick result: it works best when the moss is actively growing, and dead moss left on the lawn still needs raking up.
Worm casts — the small piles of soil that worms leave on the surface — are a sign of healthy soil life, but they make a muddy mess on a lawn in winter. Do not be tempted to use a worm killer: worms are doing the lawn a favour by aerating the soil and pulling organic matter down. Instead, let casts dry on a dry day and brush them off with a stiff brush or the back of a rake, which scatters the soil harmlessly. Never roll or mow over wet casts, which smears them into mud. If drainage is poor and the lawn sits wet all winter, that is the problem to fix — aerating with a fork in spring, and avoiding compaction in winter, will do more than any treatment.
Repairing damage and planning spring recovery
Winter is a good time to plan spring lawn repairs, even if you cannot do them yet. Note where the lawn is thin, where water sits, where moss is worst and where wear is heaviest, and make a plan: aerate compacted areas in spring, overseed bare patches when the soil warms, top-dress with compost, and feed when growth resumes. If there are bare patches now, you can sow grass seed in a mild spell in late winter in mild zones, but in cold zones it is better to wait until spring, when the seed will germinate reliably. Do not sow seed on frozen ground or in a cold snap — it will sit and rot, or be eaten by birds.
If you need to repair an edge or a small damaged area in winter, turf can be laid on a mild day when the ground is workable, and it will root slowly through winter in mild zones. But in cold zones, laying turf in midwinter is a gamble, and waiting for spring is usually the safer choice. Keep the lawn's edges tidy with a half-moon edger on a dry day if you like, but do not dig into the lawn when the soil is wet. The garden tasks in December and garden tasks in January guides cover where lawn care sits in the winter calendar, and the zone 5 winter gardening guide shows how a cold-zone lawn is treated differently from a mild-zone one.
Pros and cons of a low-intervention winter
The advantage of leaving the lawn alone in winter is that you do no harm, and a lawn that is not compacted, scalped or walked on when frozen recovers fast in spring. The disadvantage is that it looks untidy: leaves, worm casts, moss and brown patches are all visible, and a gardener who likes everything neat will find winter hard. But a lawn is not a carpet, and winter is not the season for neatness. A lawn that is rested in winter and fed, aerated and overseeded in spring will look better by May than a lawn that was fussed over all winter. Patience is the main winter lawn skill.
Common mistakes
The most common mistake is walking on frosty grass, which leaves brown footprints until spring. The second is mowing too short before winter, which leaves the crowns exposed. The third is leaving leaves on the lawn all winter, which smothers the grass. The fourth is feeding the lawn in winter, which wastes fertiliser and can pollute waterways. The fifth is treating moss without fixing shade, drainage or compaction, so it comes back. The sixth is using a worm killer, which removes the soil life the lawn depends on. And the seventh is sowing seed on frozen ground and expecting it to grow. If you are unsure about your lawn's soil or treatment, check your local extension service for advice.
Frequently asked questions
Should I mow my lawn in winter?
Only if it has grown noticeably during a mild spell, on a dry day, with the blades set high. Never mow a frosty or wet lawn, and do not mow when the grass is not growing. In most temperate zones, the lawn needs no mowing from late autumn until early spring.
Can I walk on my lawn in winter?
Avoid it when the grass is frosty or the soil is waterlogged. Frosty grass snaps and bruises, and wet soil compacts easily. Use paths or boards to cross the lawn on frosty mornings, and keep heavy traffic off the wettest areas.
Why is there moss on my lawn in winter?
Moss thrives where grass is weak — in shade, wet or compacted soil, or acidic soil. It is a symptom, not the problem. Rake it lightly in winter, but fix the cause — drainage, aeration, shade and soil pH — in spring and autumn.
Should I feed my lawn in winter?
No. Grass is not growing, so it cannot use the feed, and winter rain washes fertiliser away. Feed in spring when growth resumes, and in autumn with an autumn feed if your lawn needs it.
What do I do about worm casts on the lawn?
Leave them to dry, then brush them off with a stiff brush. Do not use a worm killer — worms aerate the soil and improve it. Never roll or mow over wet casts, which smears them into mud.