Houseplants have a hard time in winter, and it is not the cold that hurts them most — it is the combination of short days, weak light, dry indoor air and well-meaning overwatering. A plant that thrived on a bright windowsill in summer can struggle on the same sill in January, when the days are short, the sun is low, and the radiator underneath is drying the air. Winter houseplant care is about adjusting to the season: giving plants more light, less water, more humidity, and no food, and leaving them alone to rest until spring. This guide explains how to do that, plant by plant.
The first thing to understand is that most houseplants are resting in winter, even if they do not look dormant. Growth slows, new leaves are smaller or stop appearing, and the plant uses far less water and no fertiliser. Treating a resting plant as if it were still growing — watering it on a summer schedule, feeding it, repotting it — is the most common cause of winter houseplant deaths. The plant does not need more of everything in winter. It needs less water, less food, and more light.
Light in winter
Light is the biggest winter problem for houseplants. Days are short, the sun is low and weak, and a plant that was happy a metre from a window in summer may now need to be on the sill itself. Move plants closer to the brightest window you have — usually south-facing in the northern hemisphere — and clean the windows, because dirty glass can block a surprising amount of light. Rotate plants every week or two so all sides get light and they do not lean. Be careful with cold windowsills, though: a plant with its leaves pressed against cold glass can be damaged on a frosty night, so keep leaves a few centimetres from the glass, and move very tender plants back from the window on the coldest nights.
If your home is dark in winter, a grow light can make a real difference. A simple LED grow light, hung close above the plants and left on for 10 to 12 hours a day, supplements the weak daylight. The grow light calculator will help you work out hours and hanging distance. Do not leave lights on all day and night: plants need a dark period too. And do not expect a grow light to turn a dark room into a greenhouse — it helps, but a plant that needs bright light will still do best in the brightest spot you have. Our fertilizing houseplants guide covers feeding, which should stop in winter — see the section below.
Watering in winter
Overwatering is the most common killer of houseplants in winter. A plant that needed water once a week in summer may need it once a fortnight or less in winter, because it is growing slowly, the days are short, and the soil dries out slowly. Always check the soil before watering: push a finger a few centimetres into the mix, and water only if it feels dry. Water thoroughly when you do water, let the excess drain away, and never leave a plant standing in water. Empty saucers and cache pots after watering, because a plant sitting in water in a cold room will rot its roots quickly. The watering calculator gives a starting point, and the watering schedule generator — listed on the tools hub — can help you build a winter routine.
Different plants need different treatment. Cacti and succulents need very little water in winter — some need almost none — and they are the easiest to kill by overwatering. Ferns and other humidity-lovers need their soil kept lightly moist but not wet. Most leafy houseplants fall in between: water when the top few centimetres are dry, and less often than in summer. Use room-temperature water, not cold water straight from the tap, because cold water can shock roots in a cold room. Water in the morning, so the plant has the day to use it, and reduce watering further if the room is cool. If you are unsure how much water a particular plant needs, check your local extension service for advice.
Humidity and indoor heat
This is the part of winter houseplant care that most people miss, and it is the subject of our winter heat protection guide as well. Central heating dries indoor air, and many houseplants — especially tropical ones such as ferns, calatheas and palms — suffer in dry air: leaf edges turn brown and crisp, leaves drop, and growth stalls. The heating itself is not too hot for the plant; the problem is that hot, dry air pulls moisture out of the leaves faster than the roots can replace it, especially when the plant is not growing actively.
Raise humidity without overwatering the soil. Group plants together, so they create a more humid microclimate. Stand pots on a tray of pebbles with water in the bottom, keeping the pot bases above the water so the roots do not sit in it. Mist occasionally if it helps, but misting alone is a short-lived fix and can encourage disease if leaves stay wet in a cool room. A small humidifier in the room is the most reliable solution if you have many tropical plants. Keep plants away from radiators, hot air vents and fireplaces, and away from cold draughts from doors and windows — both extremes stress them. The humidity temperature checker — listed on the tools hub — will tell you whether your room suits your plants.
Feeding, repotting and cleaning
Do not feed houseplants in winter. A resting plant cannot use fertiliser, and salts build up in the mix, burning roots and damaging leaves. Wait until growth resumes in spring, then start feeding at half strength. If you fed a plant in autumn and it is now showing brown leaf tips, the mix may have a build-up of salts: flush it by watering thoroughly and letting it drain, and do not feed again until spring. Our fertilizing houseplants guide covers feeding through the year.
Do not repot houseplants in winter unless they are in real trouble — for example, if the pot has cracked or the plant is falling over. Repotting is a spring job, when the plant is growing and can recover. If a plant is badly root-bound and struggling, you can pot it on into a pot one size larger with fresh mix, but do it on a mild day, handle the roots gently, and do not feed it afterwards. Clean the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth, because dusty leaves cannot photosynthesise well, and winter light is already weak. Check plants regularly for pests: fungus gnats, spider mites and mealybugs all thrive indoors in winter, when the air is warm and dry and there are no predators. Our fungus gnats and spider mites on plants guides cover the two most common winter pests.
Tender plants brought indoors
Many gardeners bring tender plants indoors for winter — pelargoniums, tender herbs, citrus in pots, and container flowers that cannot survive frost. These plants need the brightest spot you have, cool rather than hot conditions if possible, and very sparing water. A cool, bright porch or conservatory is better than a hot, dark living room. Cut back leggy growth before bringing them in, check them for pests first so you do not bring aphids or whitefly into the house, and do not expect them to grow in winter — they are surviving, not thriving, and they will grow again in spring. Our winter frost protection guide covers the move indoors and the alternatives, and the winter flower care guide covers the garden plants that come inside.
Common mistakes
The most common mistake is overwatering, which rots roots in a cold room. The second is feeding a resting plant, which burns roots. The third is leaving plants in a dark corner all winter, so they stretch and weaken. The fourth is putting plants right next to a radiator or in a cold draught. The fifth is repotting in midwinter, when the plant cannot recover. The sixth is ignoring pests, which build up fast indoors in winter. And the seventh is throwing away a plant that has dropped leaves in winter — many houseplants drop leaves when light falls, and they recover in spring if the roots are healthy. If you are unsure about a particular houseplant in winter, check your local extension service for advice.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I water houseplants in winter?
Far less than in summer. Check the soil with a finger and water only when the top few centimetres are dry — often once a fortnight or less. Water thoroughly, let it drain, and never leave the plant standing in water. Cacti and succulents need almost no water in winter.
Should I feed houseplants in winter?
No. Most houseplants are resting and cannot use fertiliser. Salts build up in the mix and burn roots. Wait until growth resumes in spring, then feed at half strength.
Why are my houseplant leaves turning brown at the edges?
Usually dry indoor air from central heating. The hot, dry air pulls moisture from the leaves faster than the roots can replace it. Group plants together, use a pebble tray, keep plants away from radiators, and consider a humidifier.
Do houseplants need a grow light in winter?
In a dark home, yes — a simple LED grow light for 10 to 12 hours a day makes a real difference. In a bright home, moving plants to the brightest window and cleaning the glass may be enough. Keep leaves a few centimetres from cold glass on frosty nights.
Can I repot a houseplant in winter?
Only if it is in real trouble. Repotting is a spring job, when the plant is growing and can recover. If you must pot on in winter, move to a pot only one size larger, handle roots gently, and do not feed afterwards.