December is the quietest month in the garden and one of the most important, and the garden tasks in December are mostly done indoors, with a notebook, a seed catalogue and a cup of something warm. The work you do now — reviewing the year, ordering seeds early, protecting tender plants and keeping tools in order — decides how smoothly next spring goes. Outdoors, December is about protection and patience, not planting. This guide splits the work by zone band — cold zones 1–4, temperate zones 5–7, warm zones 8–10, and frost-free zones 11–13. Frost dates are given only as averages and ranges, never as exact dates for a particular place, and zones 11–13 are frost-free, so their calendar runs on heat and rain instead. Before you act on any timing here, check your local extension service for the frost dates and sowing windows that fit your area.
Cold zones 1–4: review, order and protect
In zones 1–4, December is deep winter, with the ground frozen and the garden dormant. Seed starting indoors is limited to herbs and microgreens on a windowsill, but December is the month to order seeds for next year, while the best varieties are still in stock. Review your sowing log, note what worked and what failed, and plan the rotation before you order.
Direct sowing outdoors is not possible, and transplanting outdoors is finished for the year. Pruning is limited to removing dead, broken or diseased wood on a mild day, since fresh cuts on frozen wood can suffer dieback, and full dormant pruning waits until late winter. Fertilising is finished outdoors: do not feed anything now. Pest and disease watch means checking stored fruit, bulbs and tubers for rot, inspecting fruit trees for canker and scale while branches are bare, and clearing fallen leaves from around roses. Watering outdoors is nil, but check containers in sheltered spots on mild days, and make sure stored tubers are neither drying out nor rotting. Harvesting is limited to leeks, parsnips, Brussels sprouts and kale left in the ground on unfrozen days, plus stored crops and windowsill herbs. Soil and compost work is protection: keep beds mulched, keep the compost heap covered, and collect the last leaves for leaf mould. Houseplant care is winter care: brightest windows, sparing water, no feeding, dust leaves so they catch what light there is, and watch for fungus gnats and spider mites in dry heated air. Tool maintenance is a December pleasure: clean, sharpen, oil and repair everything, service the mower, and inventory supplies so spring starts smoothly.
Temperate zones 5–7: plan, prune lightly and protect
Zones 5–7 are dormant or nearly dormant in December, with average first frost dates already past, generally from mid-October to early November. Seed starting indoors is limited to herbs and microgreens, but order seeds now and plan the rotation, using our seed-starting calculator to set next year's dates.
Direct sowing outdoors is finished, apart from garlic planted early in December if the ground is still workable in zone 7. Transplanting outdoors is finished, though bare-root trees and shrubs can still be planted on a mild day if the ground is not frozen. Pruning is light: remove dead, broken or diseased wood, and leave full dormant pruning until late winter, when the worst cold has passed. Our pruning calendar shows the order for next year. Fertilising is finished outdoors: do not feed anything now. Pest and disease watch means checking stored fruit and tubers for rot, inspecting fruit trees for scale and canker, and clearing leaves from around roses and fruit trees. Watering outdoors is minimal, but check containers in sheltered spots on mild days, and drain hoses and irrigation if you have not already. Harvesting is thin but real: leeks, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, kale and winter greens in zone 7, plus stored crops and herbs indoors. Soil and compost work is protection: mulch beds, garlic and tender shrubs thickly, cover the compost heap, and collect leaves for leaf mould. Houseplant care is winter care: brightest windows, sparing water, no feeding, and a regular check for pests in dry indoor air. Tool maintenance should be finished in December: sharpen, oil, repair and inventory everything.
Warm zones 8–10: cool-season harvests and dormant pruning
In zones 8–10, December is a pleasant growing month, with cool-season crops thriving and citrus ripening. Seed starting indoors continues for cool-season crops: start broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, spinach, onions and herbs indoors for transplanting, and start tomatoes and peppers indoors late in December in zone 10 for an early spring crop.
Direct sowing outdoors covers cool-season crops: sow lettuce, spinach, kale, radishes, carrots, beets, turnips, peas, broad beans and herbs, with succession sowings every two weeks. Transplanting is cool-season crops: set out broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, spinach, kale, onions and herbs, watered in well. Pruning is a real December job here: prune dormant fruit trees, grapevines and roses in zones 9–10 late in the month, cut back summer-flowering shrubs, and remove dead wood. See the rose growing guide for pruning and care. Fertilising is light: feed citrus, which is fruiting now, feed cool-season vegetables lightly, and feed roses as buds begin to swell in zone 10. Pest and disease watch means aphids on new growth, cabbage worms on brassicas, slugs after rain, and black spot on roses — check weekly and remove affected leaves. Watering is moderate: water deeply in the morning, mulch thickly, water containers regularly, and avoid watering on frosty nights in zone 8. Harvesting is generous: citrus, lettuce, spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, beets, leeks, herbs and sweet potatoes. Soil and compost work means mulching beds, turning the heap, adding compost, and planting spring bulbs in zone 8. Houseplants can spend mild days outside, but bring them in on frosty nights, and start feeding those showing new growth at half strength.
Frost-free zones 11–13: year-round growing and citrus season
Zones 11–13 are frost-free, so December has no frost dates to plan around. The calendar runs on heat and rain, and December is one of the best growing months, cool enough for leafy crops that summer heat would ruin. Seed starting is direct for most crops, but keep starting tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in trays, and sow lettuce, spinach and herbs in the coolest, shadiest beds.
Direct sowing covers beans, corn, squash, cucumbers, melons, okra, sweet potatoes, carrots, beets, lettuce, spinach, peas and herbs, with succession sowings every two weeks. Transplanting is continuous: set out tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, basil, cucumbers, broccoli, cabbage and tropical fruit trees, and plant bananas, papaya and pineapples now. Pruning is shaping and tidying: cut back spent growth, shape fruit trees after harvest, and remove dead wood, always giving plants airflow. Fertilising is steady and light: feed vegetables every few weeks, feed citrus and fruit trees, and use compost tea for a gentle boost. Pest and disease watch is weekly and year-round: aphids, whiteflies, spider mites, caterpillars, fungal spots and fruit flies all need attention. Watering needs care in both directions: water deeply in dry spells, but make sure pots and beds drain freely in heavy rain. Harvesting is abundant: tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, leafy greens, herbs, citrus, bananas and papaya. Soil and compost work never stops: keep the heap hot and turning, add green waste, and refresh beds with compost. Houseplants outdoors need dividing, repotting and a check for pests and rot in humid weather.
Review, order and the December checklist
December is the month to review the year properly: which varieties earned their space, which beds need more compost, where the sun falls in each season, and what pests kept returning. Write it down now, while you remember, and use it to plan next year's rotation. Order seeds early, test germination of leftover seed, and check your local extension service for any winter pest or disease alerts in your area. A December hour with a notebook saves a dozen March headaches.
Frequently asked questions
What should I plant in December?
In zones 1–4, plant nothing outdoors; order seeds and plan instead. In zones 5–7, plant only garlic early in the month if the ground is workable. In zones 8–10, sow and transplant cool-season crops: lettuce, spinach, brassicas, carrots and peas. In zones 11–13, sow warm-season and cool-season crops direct. Check your local extension service for the windows that fit your area.
Can I prune in December?
In zones 1–7, prune only dead, broken or diseased wood in December, and leave full dormant pruning until late winter. In zones 8–10, prune dormant fruit trees, grapevines and roses late in the month. In zones 11–13, December pruning is shaping and tidying after harvest. Our pruning calendar shows the timing for your zone.
What can I harvest in December?
In zones 1–4, leeks, parsnips, Brussels sprouts, kale and stored crops. In zones 5–7, leeks, parsnips, kale and winter greens. In zones 8–10, citrus, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, beets and leafy greens. In zones 11–13, tomatoes, peppers, beans, herbs and citrus all month.
Should I feed anything in December?
In zones 1–7, feed nothing outdoors in December. In zones 8–10, feed citrus and cool-season vegetables lightly. In zones 11–13, feed actively growing vegetables lightly and regularly. Houseplants should not be fed until growth resumes in spring, except in zones 11–13 where growth continues.
How do I protect tender plants in December?
Mulch tender perennials and shrubs thickly, wrap tender shrubs in fleece, move containers to sheltered spots, and bring houseplants and tender bulbs inside before hard frosts. In zones 8–10, keep fleece handy for cold nights, and in zones 11–13 protection is rarely needed.