Lilies bring tall, elegant flowers in white, pink, orange and yellow to a Zone 13 garden, with a scent that can fill a whole border on a still evening. They are bulbs, like tulips, but they are more forgiving of warm winters: many lilies need far less cold than tulips or daffodils, and some types flower reliably in frost-free climates when they are planted in the coolest months and given sharp drainage.
The keys in Zone 13 are timing and drainage. Plant bulbs in the cool season, keep their roots cool and moist with mulch and low ground cover, and give their heads the sun they love. This guide covers when to plant lilies in Zone 13, with the soil, spacing, sun, water and care they need. Use the Zone 13 planting calendar to see what else to sow alongside it.
Zone 13 at a glance
USDA Zone 13 has average winter lows of above 60°F and is frost-free year-round — there is no last or first frost date to plan around. Plan by heat and by the wet and dry seasons instead: heat lovers grow year-round, while cool-season crops only succeed in the coolest months. These are zone averages, not promises for any one garden, so check your local extension service for your area.
| Detail | Zone 13 guidance |
|---|---|
| Last / first frost | None — Zone 13 is frost-free year-round |
| Average winter low | above 60°F |
| Days to germination | 14–28 days |
| Days to maturity | 90–120 days |
| Sowing | Start indoors or direct sow |
| Transplanting / planting out | Coolest months only; best results in the planting window above |
| Harvest | Flowers 90–120 days after sowing/planting; pick regularly |
| Sun | full sun |
| Soil pH | 6.0–7.0 |
| Spacing | 12–18 inches |
| Water needs | moderate |
When to plant lilies in Zone 13
In Zone 13, plant lily bulbs in the coolest months, roughly November to February, so they establish roots while nights are at their mildest and flower before the hot season peaks. There is no last or first frost date to plan around — Zone 13 is frost-free year-round with winter lows above 60°F — so work from the calendar and the cool season instead. Planting in the hot season risks bulbs rotting in warm, wet soil before they root. Lilies take 90–120 days to maturity, so a November planting can flower in the cool season. Check your local extension service for the best planting windows in your area. Frost dates are zone averages — check your local extension service before you commit to a date.
Where drainage is good, lily bulbs can stay in the ground and return for another season — a real advantage over tulips in Zone 13. Keep a note of your planting date and first flowers; after one season you will know exactly which weeks suit lilies best in your own garden. If the bed stays wet for long spells, lift bulbs after flowering, dry them off and store them somewhere dry and airy until the next cool season.
Starting lilies in Zone 13
Lilies can be started indoors or planted direct as bulbs, and in Zone 13 planting bulbs direct is the usual route. Choose firm, heavy bulbs with no soft spots or mould, and plant them as soon as you buy them — lily bulbs have no protective papery coat and dry out fast. Set each bulb pointy-end up at the depth shown on the packet, in soil that drains freely, and water them in. Seeds germinate in 14–28 days, but seed-grown lilies take years to flower, so bulbs are the sensible choice.
Plant bulbs in groups of three or more for the best display, and set a stake in place at planting time for tall varieties, because a lily in flower is top-heavy and a Zone 13 storm can flatten it overnight. Label the variety and colour as you plant — bare soil all looks the same by flowering time. Mulch over the bulbs to keep their roots cool, and plant low ground cover or shallow-rooted companions around them to shade the soil.
Soil, spacing, sun and water
Lilies want full sun on their heads and cool, shaded roots — the old saying is that lilies like their feet in the shade and their heads in the sun. They need rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0–7.0. Dig in well-rotted compost before planting and space bulbs 12–18 inches apart, since crowded lilies stay damp and invite disease. In Zone 13's heavy rains, drainage is everything: a bulb sitting in wet soil rots quickly, so raise beds slightly or grow lilies in pots with free-draining mix. Mulch thickly to keep the soil cool and evenly moist.
Lilies need moderate water: water deeply and less often rather than lightly every day, water at the base in the morning so leaves dry before night, and check the soil a finger's depth down, watering when it feels dry there. Keep the soil steadily moist while plants are growing and flowering, then ease off after flowering so bulbs rest in drier soil. The watering calculator can help you work out a routine that keeps lilies moist without waterlogging them.
Companion planting
Good companions for lilies include lavender, marigolds, garlic and chives. Garlic and chives are traditional bulb companions, said to deter pests, while lavender and marigolds draw pollinators and beneficial insects to the bed. The companion planting finder can suggest combinations for your whole bed. Low, shallow-rooted companions such as marigolds are especially useful, since they shade the soil and keep lily roots cool without competing for depth.
Give lilies room and air: their worst problems in Zone 13 come from still, damp air and wet soil, so do not crowd them with tall neighbours. Avoid planting lilies where the soil stays soggy, and keep them away from plants that need heavy summer watering after the lilies have finished flowering, since the bulbs prefer a drier rest.
Pests and problems
The common pests and problems to watch for with lilies are aphids, slugs and cutworms. Aphids cluster on shoot tips and buds and can distort new growth, so check the undersides of leaves weekly and wash small colonies off with a strong jet of water. Slugs chew ragged holes in leaves and young shoots, especially in damp weather, so look under pots and mulch in the morning. Cutworms can sever young shoots at soil level, so protect fresh growth with a simple collar pushed into the soil around each shoot. The lily beetle, where present, is a bright red beetle that eats leaves and flowers — hand-pick it and its larvae promptly.
The biggest problem in Zone 13 is rot: bulbs in warm, wet soil decay before they flower, so drainage and careful watering matter more than any spray. In Zone 13's year-round warmth, pests never get a winter break, so check plants weekly rather than waiting for damage to show. Remove spent flowers and damaged leaves promptly, stake tall stems before they flop, and lift and discard any bulb that feels soft or smells bad rather than letting rot spread.
Harvest and storage
Lilies flower 90–120 days after planting, and cutting keeps the display tidy. Cut flowers in the cool of the morning for the vase, choosing stems with one or two buds just opening, and leave at least two-thirds of the stem and its leaves on the plant — the leaves feed the bulb for next season. Deadhead spent flowers so the plant does not waste energy on seed, but let the foliage die back naturally before you clear the bed.
For the vase, cut stems long, strip the lower leaves, and put stems straight into cool water. Remove the pollen anthers if you want to protect clothing and tablecloths from stains, and keep arrangements out of direct sun. Note that lilies are highly toxic to cats, so keep cut lilies and lily plants away from any household with cats. Once flowering ends, let the leaves yellow naturally, then cut stems down and mulch over the bulbs for their rest.
Making the most of Zone 13
Zone 13's advantage is time: with no frost, you can grow lilies as cool-season-planted bulbs that may return for another season where drainage is good. The trick is to plant in the coolest months, keep their roots cool and shaded, and keep a simple notebook of what you planted and when it flowered — after one season you will have a record far more useful than any general guide. Related reading: dahlias share the same sunny-bed habits, and January in Zone 13 is a great month to plant. Marigolds in Zone 13 are a useful low companion that shades lily roots. Related reading: Dahlias in Zone 13 share the same habits, and January in Zone 13 is a great month to plant. For a planting plan tailored to your postcode, try the planting calendar by zip.
Frequently asked questions
When should I plant lilies in Zone 13?
Plant lily bulbs in the coolest months, roughly November to February. Zone 13 is frost-free with winter lows above 60°F, so there is no last frost date to count back from. Check your local extension service — these are zone averages, not exact dates for your garden.
How long do lilies take to grow in Zone 13?
Seeds germinate in 14–28 days, but lilies are grown from bulbs, which flower 90–120 days after planting. A November planting can flower in the cool season if drainage is good.
Can lilies come back next year in Zone 13?
Often yes, where drainage is good — lilies need less winter cold than tulips or daffodils, so bulbs left in well-drained soil can return for another season. Lift and store them dry only if the bed stays wet for long spells.
What soil and spacing do lilies need in Zone 13?
Lilies need full sun and soil pH 6.0–7.0, spaced 12–18 inches apart. Drainage is critical — bulbs rot in wet soil — so raise beds or grow in pots, mulch to keep roots cool, and test your soil through your local extension service.
Are lilies safe around cats?
No — lilies are highly toxic to cats, and even pollen or vase water can be dangerous. Keep lilies out of any household with cats, and choose another flower for the vase if a cat has access to it.