Winter transplanting sounds like a contradiction — why would you move a plant in the coldest season? — but for many plants, winter is the best time to move them. Deciduous trees, shrubs, roses and other dormant plants can be lifted and replanted while they are asleep, with far less shock than a move in full leaf. Bare-root plants, which are sold without soil around their roots, are only available in the dormant season, and they are cheaper and establish well if they are planted promptly. And seedlings started indoors in winter will need transplanting into larger pots long before they can go outside. This guide explains which plants can be moved in winter, how to do it, and when to leave well alone.
The key idea is dormancy. A deciduous plant in winter has no leaves to lose water through, so it can cope with root disturbance that would kill it in summer. An evergreen, which keeps its leaves all winter, still loses water through them, so it is harder to move in winter and needs more care. A plant in active growth — a houseplant, a tender perennial, a seedling — should not be transplanted in the middle of winter unless it has to be, because it has no dormant period to recover in. Knowing which category your plant falls into is the first decision, and it decides almost everything else.
What can be transplanted in winter
Deciduous trees and shrubs are the best candidates for winter transplanting. Roses, fruit trees, ornamental shrubs, hedging plants and young deciduous trees can all be moved while dormant, from late autumn after leaf fall until early spring before buds break. Bare-root roses, fruit trees and hedging are sold in exactly this window, and they should be planted as soon as possible after they arrive — if the ground is frozen, heel them into a sheltered spot or keep them in a cool shed with their roots covered in damp compost until the ground can be worked. Our growing roses and growing apples guides cover the plants most often moved bare-root in winter.
Hardy perennials can also be divided and moved in winter in mild zones, though late autumn or early spring is usually better than midwinter. Evergreens can be moved in winter, but only on a mild day, with a large rootball, and with plenty of water and protection afterwards — they are a riskier move, and early autumn or spring is safer. Tender plants, houseplants and summer bedding should not be moved outdoors in winter at all. Seedlings started indoors, on the other hand, will need potting on — moving into a slightly larger pot — through winter, and that is normal indoor transplanting; see our winter seed starting guide for the seedling side.
When to transplant in winter
The window runs from leaf fall in late autumn to bud break in early spring, but within that window, timing matters. Transplant on a mild, still, damp day, when the ground is workable — moist but not waterlogged, and not frozen. Avoid transplanting in a hard frost, in a cold wind, or when the ground is frozen solid: roots exposed to freezing air are damaged quickly, and frozen soil cannot be worked or firmed around roots. Avoid wet, sticky soil too, especially clay: digging it destroys its structure, and it will set hard around the roots. If a cold snap is forecast in the days after transplanting, wait if you can — a newly moved plant with damaged roots is more vulnerable to frost than an established one.
In zones 11 to 13, which are frost-free, the dormant-season logic barely applies, and transplanting follows the local dry and wet seasons rather than a winter window. In zones 1 to 4, the window is short: the ground freezes early and thaws late, so transplant in late autumn before the freeze, or wait for the spring thaw. In zones 5 to 8, the window is generous, with many mild days through winter. In zones 9 and 10, winter is an excellent transplanting season for hardy plants, because the soil is cool and moist and the plants are not stressed by heat. Frost dates vary even within a zone, so treat the ranges in this guide as averages and check your local extension service for your area.
How to transplant in winter: step by step
1. Prepare the new hole first. Dig the new planting hole before you lift the plant, so the roots spend as little time out of the ground as possible. Make the hole wider than the rootball, but no deeper than the plant was growing before — planting too deep is a common cause of failure. Loosen the bottom of the hole with a fork, and have compost and mulch ready beside it.
2. Water the plant the day before. Water well the day before moving, so the soil holds together around the roots and the plant is fully hydrated. Do not water on the day itself if the ground is already wet.
3. Lift with as much root as you can. Dig a wide circle around the plant, at least as wide as the canopy, and lever the rootball out with a fork, keeping as much soil on the roots as possible. For a bare-root plant, handle the roots gently and keep them covered and damp at all times — never let them dry out in wind or sun, and never leave them exposed to frost.
4. Replant at the same depth. Set the plant in the hole at the same depth it was growing before — you can usually see the old soil mark on the stem. Spread bare roots out naturally, do not bend or cram them. Backfill with the soil you dug out, mixed with a little compost, and firm it gently with your feet, not by stamping hard, which compacts the soil.
5. Water well. Water thoroughly after planting, even in winter, so the soil settles around the roots and air pockets are removed. A newly transplanted plant needs water more than it needs food: do not feed it now, because it has no active roots to take food up, and fertiliser can burn damaged roots.
6. Mulch and protect. Mulch around the plant, keeping the mulch away from the stem, to hold moisture and steady the soil temperature. Our winter mulching guide covers materials and depths. In a cold zone, a windbreak of hessian or a few branches on the windward side helps a newly moved evergreen. Stake a newly moved tree if it is tall or the site is windy, but use a loose tie and remove the stake after the first growing season.
Potting on seedlings indoors
Seedlings started indoors in winter will outgrow their first pots long before they can go outside, and potting on — moving them into a slightly larger pot — is a normal part of winter seed starting. Pot on when roots appear through the drainage holes, or when the seedling has two or three sets of true leaves and looks crowded. Move to a pot only one size larger, not a big pot, because a small plant in a big pot sits in wet mix it cannot use, and the roots can rot. Use fresh seed starting mix or potting mix, water the seedling before moving it, handle it by a leaf rather than the stem, and water gently after potting on. Our potting mix recipe and seed starting mix guides give simple mixes, and the repotting calculator — listed on the tools hub — helps with pot sizes for houseplants. Keep potted-on seedlings under lights and in a bright, cool spot, and harden them off gradually before they go outside.
Aftercare through winter
A transplanted plant needs watching through the rest of winter. Water it during dry spells, because winter wind dries soil even when it is cold, and a plant with damaged roots cannot reach water far away. Check after frosts that the plant has not been lifted by frost heaving — if it has, firm it back gently when the ground thaws. Check stakes and ties, and loosen any tie that is cutting into bark. Do not prune a newly transplanted deciduous shrub hard in winter unless it is the right time for that plant: the roots need all the energy they can get, and heavy pruning is an extra shock. Do not feed until growth resumes in spring, and then feed lightly. If the plant looks dead in spring, be patient: a transplanted deciduous shrub can be slow to leaf out in its first spring, and scratching a twig to look for green underneath is a better test than assuming the worst. The garden tasks in January and garden tasks in February guides cover the winter aftercare calendar, and the zone 5 winter gardening guide shows how transplanting fits into a cold-zone winter.
Common mistakes
The most common mistake is transplanting in frozen or waterlogged ground, which damages roots and soil structure. The second is letting bare roots dry out or freeze while the plant is out of the ground. The third is planting too deep, which can rot the stem and kill the plant slowly. The fourth is moving a plant in full leaf or active growth in winter, when it cannot cope with root loss. The fifth is feeding a newly transplanted plant, which burns damaged roots. The sixth is potting a seedling into a pot far too large for it, so the mix stays wet and the roots rot. And the seventh is forgetting aftercare — a transplanted plant needs water, mulch and checking through winter, not just a hole on the day. If you are unsure whether a particular plant can be moved in your area and season, check your local extension service for advice.
Frequently asked questions
Can I transplant in winter?
Yes, for dormant deciduous trees, shrubs, roses and hedging — winter is often the best time to move them. Do not move plants in active growth, tender plants or houseplants outdoors in winter, and do not transplant when the ground is frozen or waterlogged.
What is bare-root planting?
Bare-root plants are sold in the dormant season without soil around their roots. They are cheaper than potted plants and establish well if planted promptly. Keep the roots damp, covered and frost-free until planting, and plant at the same depth as before.
How do I keep transplanted plants alive in winter?
Plant on a mild day, water well after planting, mulch around the plant keeping mulch away from the stem, protect from wind, and water during dry spells. Do not feed until growth resumes in spring.
When should I pot on seedlings?
When roots show through the drainage holes or the seedling has two or three sets of true leaves and looks crowded. Move to a pot only one size larger, handle the seedling by a leaf, and keep it under lights in a bright, cool spot.
Why has my transplanted shrub not leafed out in spring?
It may simply be slow. A transplanted deciduous shrub can leaf out weeks late in its first spring. Scratch a twig lightly: green underneath means it is alive. Give it water and time before deciding it has failed.