February is the month the gardening year starts to move, and the garden tasks in February are all about timing. The days are lengthening, seed catalogues are arriving, and the first trays of seedlings are already under lights, but one cold snap can still undo a hasty planting. This guide splits the work by zone band — cold zones 1–4, temperate zones 5–7, warm zones 8–10, and frost-free zones 11–13 — so you can tell the difference between a job that is due now and one that should wait. Frost dates are given only as averages and ranges, never as exact dates for a particular place, and zones 11–13 are frost-free, so their calendar runs on heat and rain instead. Before you act on any timing here, check your local extension service for the frost dates and sowing windows that fit your area.
Cold zones 1–4: seedlings under lights and plans on paper
In zones 1–4, average last frost dates still fall roughly from late May into June, so February is an indoor month. Seed starting is the main event: onions, leeks and celery sown in January should be up and growing, and now is the time to start peppers, eggplant and slow herbs such as rosemary under lights with bottom heat. Peppers are famously slow to germinate, so sow them early and keep them warm, around room temperature or a little above, and do not give up on a tray after a week. Tomatoes can wait until March in this band, or they will be leggy giants by planting time. Use our seed-starting calculator to work backwards from your average last frost.
Direct sowing outdoors is still impossible while the ground is frozen, and transplanting outside is out of the question. Indoors, pot on seedlings that have their first true leaves, moving them into slightly larger pots of fresh mix and handling them by a leaf. Keep lights just a few inches above the seedlings and raise them as the plants grow, because weak light is the commonest cause of leggy seedlings. Pruning is best left until late February or March here, when the worst cold has passed, though you can remove dead or storm-damaged branches on any mild day. Fertilising is not needed: seedlings in fresh mix have enough food for their first weeks, and nothing outdoors is growing. Pest and disease watch is an indoor job — check seedlings daily for damping off, the fungal disease that makes stems collapse at soil level. Prevent it with clean trays, fresh mix, good airflow and watering from below. Watering outdoors is nil, but check stored bulbs and tubers again and discard anything soft or mouldy. Harvesting is limited to stored crops, sprouted seeds on a windowsill and herbs kept indoors. Soil and compost work means planning, not digging: order compost, mulch and soil amendments, and turn the heap only if it has thawed. Houseplant care is much the same as January — brightest light, sparing water, no feeding — but by late February you may see the first signs of new growth, and that is your cue to start watering a little more freely. Keep plants away from cold windows at night.
Temperate zones 5–7: the seed-starting rush begins
Zones 5–7, with average last frost dates generally from mid-April to mid-May, hit the seed-starting rush in February. Start tomatoes, peppers and eggplant indoors now, six to eight weeks before your average last frost, along with broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce and onions if you have not already. Sow in trays or cells, label everything, and note the date, because by March you will have forgotten what is what. See the tomato growing guide for what those seedlings will need once they are outside, and the broccoli growing guide for the brassicas.
Direct sowing outdoors is still limited, but in zone 7 you can sow peas, broad beans and spinach under cloches or in a cold frame late in the month if the soil is workable and not waterlogged. Squeeze a handful of soil: if it holds together in a wet ball, wait. Transplanting outside is still too early for tender crops, but hardy seedlings started in January can be potted on indoors, and in the mildest parts of zone 7 you can set out onion sets and shallots. Pruning is a headline February job in this band. Prune fruit trees, grapevines, roses and dormant shrubs on a dry day before buds break, removing dead, diseased and crossing wood first. Our pruning calendar shows the order to tackle them. Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs, and hold off on tender shrubs until frost risk has passed.
Fertilising is mostly still on hold, though you can top-dress fruit trees and roses with compost as the soil begins to warm. Pest and disease watch means inspecting fruit trees for scale and canker while the branches are bare, and clearing away any mummified fruit left from last year, which can carry disease. Watering is light: water seedlings as needed, check containers in sheltered spots, and avoid watering frozen soil. Harvesting offers leeks, parsnips and the last Brussels sprouts in zone 7, plus forced rhubarb and early herbs indoors. For soil and compost, spread compost on beds that have thawed, fork in green manures sown in autumn, and take a soil test now so you have results before spring feeding starts. Houseplants begin to wake up in late February: increase watering gradually, and you can start feeding at half strength once you see steady new growth. Tool maintenance should be finished this month — sharpen, oil and repair everything, because March leaves no spare weekends.
Warm zones 8–10: planting out and sowing warm-season crops
In zones 8–10, average last frost dates run roughly from late January in zone 10 to mid-March in zone 8, so February is a busy planting month. Seed starting indoors continues for tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and cucurbits to plant out after the average last frost, and in zones 9–10 you can also start okra, sweet corn and melons under cover. Sow herbs such as basil indoors now so they are ready for warm weather, and see the basil growing guide for how to keep it productive.
Direct sowing outdoors is in full swing: peas, lettuce, spinach, kale, radishes, beets, carrots, turnips, onions and potatoes all go in now, and in zones 9–10 you can sow beans and squash late in the month once the soil has warmed. Transplanting is equally busy: set out broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, chard and onion seedlings, and finish planting bare-root roses, fruit trees and berries before they break dormancy. Pruning reaches its peak in February here: prune roses hard in zones 8–9, finish dormant fruit tree and grapevine pruning, and cut back ornamental grasses before new growth appears. Fertilising begins in earnest: feed roses, fruit trees and citrus as growth resumes, and give vegetable beds a balanced feed or a thick layer of compost before sowing. Pest and disease watch steps up: check brassicas for cabbage worms, look for aphids on new growth, and watch roses for black spot after wet weather. Watering matters because February can be dry and windy in this band: water new plantings deeply, water in the morning, and mulch beds to hold moisture. Harvesting is plentiful — citrus, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, beets, leafy greens, peas and herbs — and our harvest date calculator can help you judge when roots and heads are ready. Soil and compost work means topping beds with compost, turning the heap regularly, and mulching bare soil before spring weeds germinate. Houseplants can spend mild days outside for a wash and fresh air, but bring them in on frosty nights, and start feeding those showing new growth at half strength.
Frost-free zones 11–13: warm-season sowing in full swing
Zones 11–13 are frost-free, so February has no frost dates to wait for. The season is driven by heat and rain, and February is warm enough for heat-loving crops but still kind to leafy greens. Seed starting is mostly direct sowing here, but start tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in trays for an even stand, and keep sowing lettuce, spinach and herbs in the coolest, shadiest beds you have.
Direct sowing covers beans, corn, squash, cucumbers, melons, okra, carrots, beets and radishes, and succession sow lettuce and herbs every two weeks for a continuous supply. Transplanting is continuous: set out tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, basil, cucumbers and flowers, and plant tropical fruit trees and shrubs now while the weather is mild. Pruning is a tidying job: shape mango, avocado and citrus after harvest, cut back spent flower stems, and remove dead growth from tropical shrubs. Fertilising is steady and light: feed vegetables every few weeks, feed citrus and fruit trees, and use compost tea or diluted liquid feed rather than heavy doses. Pest and disease watch is constant in this band, so inspect weekly for aphids, whiteflies, spider mites and fungal leaf spots, and encourage beneficial insects by planting flowers nearby. Watering needs care as temperatures climb: water deeply in the morning, mulch heavily, and check containers daily. Harvesting is abundant: tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, beans, leafy greens, herbs, citrus, bananas and papaya. Soil and compost work never stops: keep the heap turning, add green waste, and refresh beds with compost between crops. Houseplants in this band are often outdoors, so February is a good month to repot, divide overgrown plants and refresh potting mix. Check our pruning calendar for tropical shrubs that need shaping now.
Tool maintenance and planning, everywhere
February is the last month to get tools in order before spring. Clean off winter grime, sharpen mower blades and secateurs, oil hinges and moving parts, check hoses for cracks, and replace worn handles. Also check your seed stock: test germination of last year's leftover seed by sprouting ten seeds on damp kitchen paper, and order replacements for anything that fails. A February inventory saves a March panic.
Frequently asked questions
What seeds should I start indoors in February?
In zones 1–4, start peppers, eggplant and slow herbs under lights. In zones 5–7, start tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, broccoli, cabbage and lettuce. In zones 8–10, start tomatoes, peppers and cucurbits for planting out after the average last frost, and in zones 11–13 sow most things direct. Check your local extension service for the sowing windows that fit your area.
Can I plant peas outside in February?
In zones 8–10, yes, peas go direct outdoors now. In zone 7 you can try them under cover late in the month if the soil is workable. In zones 1–6 the soil is still too cold and wet, so wait until March or April. Peas tolerate light frost but rot in cold, soggy soil.
When should I prune roses?
Prune roses in late winter before new growth starts: February in zones 8–10, late February to March in zones 5–7, and March in zones 1–4 once hard frost has passed. In frost-free zones 11–13, prune after the main flowering flush. Our pruning calendar gives the timing for your zone.
What can I harvest in February?
In zones 8–10, citrus, broccoli, cauliflower, carrots, beets and leafy greens. In zones 11–13, tomatoes, peppers, beans and herbs as well. In zones 5–7, leeks, parsnips and the last Brussels sprouts, and in zones 1–4 mainly stored crops and windowsill herbs and sprouts.
Should I feed my garden in February?
In zones 1–7, hold off feeding outdoors until growth resumes, though you can top-dress with compost. In zones 8–10, feed roses, fruit trees and citrus as buds swell. In zones 11–13, feed actively growing vegetables lightly and regularly. Houseplants can start half-strength feeding once you see steady new growth.