Shallots are usually grown from sets — small bulbs planted like onion sets — but seed-grown shallots are cheaper, store well, and give you more plants. The catch is that the seed route needs an early indoor start to size up in one season.
Shallots belong to the Amaryllidaceae family, need full sun, and take 90–120 days to mature, with seed germinating in 7–14 days. That combination — a long season and fairly quick germination — shapes every decision in this guide, from when you sow to whether indoor starting is even worth it. Be honest about shallots: most gardeners will do better with sets, planted directly outdoors in spring. Seed is the budget option, and it works, but the seedlings are tiny and the season is long (90–120 days). If you start from seed indoors, sow early and grow the seedlings on well — or accept smaller bulbs. Either way, shallots want full sun and well-drained soil.
Shallots at a glance
| Growing factor | What shallots need |
|---|---|
| Days to germination | 7–14 |
| Sowing method | direct sow |
| Days to maturity | 90–120 |
| Soil pH | 6.0–7.0 |
| Spacing | 6–8 inches |
| Sun | full sun |
| Cold tolerance | hardy |
| Water needs | moderate |
| Family | Amaryllidaceae |
When to start shallots seeds indoors
For seed-grown shallots in Zones 3–6, sow indoors 8–10 weeks before your last frost. In Zones 7–9, sow in late winter or direct-sow sets in early spring. In Zones 10–13, sow through the cool season. Sets, if you use them, go directly outdoors in spring as soon as the soil can be worked.
Timing in brief: direct sow or start indoors 8–10 weeks before your last frost. Work backwards from your last frost date using our seed-starting calculator and the frost-date calculator, and confirm the timing with your local extension service. Zones 11–13 are frost-free, so never plan around a frost date there — the calendar in those zones is about heat and rain instead. If you are unsure of your zone, the hardiness-zone finder will confirm it.
What you need
- Fresh shallots seed — check the packet date, and test old seed before you rely on it
- Seed trays or cells, plus peat pots or soil blocks if you are starting a crop that dislikes root disturbance
- Fine, sterile seed-starting mix — not garden soil, which is too heavy and carries disease
- A spray bottle or a tray for bottom watering
- Labels and a marker — shallots seedlings all look alike at first
- A grow light, or the brightest windowsill you have
- A heat mat, if you are starting a warmth-loving crop or your room runs cool
- Clean water, and a small fan for air circulation once seedlings emerge
Keep the seed packet as your reference for variety, sowing depth, and days to maturity. Wash reused trays in hot soapy water first — old compost is where damping-off fungi live.
Step by step: starting shallots seeds indoors
Sow shallot seed 1/4 inch deep in cells, a few seeds per cell. Germination takes 7–14 days. Grow seedlings on until they are sturdy, then plant out in clusters — do not try to separate every seedling individually if they were sown together.
- Fill your containers. Fill trays, cells, or peat pots with moist seed-starting mix, damp like a wrung-out sponge. Water dry mix before you sow, not after.
- Sow at the right depth. Sow at the depth on the packet and no deeper — seed sown too deep runs out of energy before it reaches the surface.
- Label everything. Write the variety and sowing date on every tray.
- Water gently. Mist the surface or water from below so seed is not washed away. Cover the tray to hold moisture in, and remove the cover the moment seedlings appear.
- Keep it warm and bright. Seed germinates in 7–14 days in suitable conditions — check daily, and move the tray into light the moment green appears.
- Thin to the strongest. If two seedlings share a cell, snip the weaker one at soil level — pulling disturbs the roots of the one you keep.
- Pot on when ready. Move seedlings into individual pots once they have two or three true leaves, handling them by a leaf, never the stem.
- Feed lightly. Seed mix has almost no nutrients, so once seedlings have true leaves, feed at half strength with a balanced liquid feed every week or so.
For direct-sown crops, the outdoor version is simpler: sow where the plant will grow, keep the bed moist until germination, and thin to 6–8 inches apart. The soil pH for shallots should be 6.0–7.0.
Light for seedlings
Shallot seedlings need strong light to stay stocky. A grow light a few inches above the leaves for 14–16 hours a day beats a windowsill.
Give seedlings 14–16 hours of light a day. A south-facing windowsill can work in spring, but most seedlings do better under a grow light hung a few inches above the leaves and raised as they grow — if the light is too far away, seedlings stretch and go leggy, and leggy seedlings rarely recover. Our grow-light calculator can help with hanging height and hours. Give them a dark night too; do not leave lights on around the clock.
Watering seedlings
Keep compost evenly moist during the 7–14 day germination window. Shallots need moderate water while growing, then drier conditions as the bulbs mature and the tops begin to fall over.
Water seedlings from below whenever you can: stand the tray in a shallow dish for ten minutes, let the mix soak it up, then drain it away. Top watering washes seed around and keeps the surface wet, which invites damping off. Keep the mix evenly moist — never soggy, never dry — and check daily, because a small cell dries fast under lights and a dry spell during the 7–14-day germination window can stall the seed. Once seedlings have true leaves, let the surface dry slightly between waterings. Our watering calculator gives a starting point. Use room-temperature water — cold water shocks young roots.
Hardening off
Harden shallots off over a week. They are hardy, so they tolerate cool nights, but harden them gradually so transplanting does not check growth.
Hardening off means getting indoor seedlings used to the outdoors gradually, over 7–10 days. Start with a few hours in a sheltered, shady spot, then lengthen the time outside each day and introduce more sun and wind. Bring trays in at night for the first few days, especially if frost threatens. Seedlings put straight outside without hardening off wilt, scorch, or stop growing for weeks — the shock undoes all the careful indoor work.
Transplanting outdoors
Set shallots 6–8 inches apart in well-drained soil in full sun, at the same depth they stood in the pot. Water in and mulch lightly. Stop watering once the tops begin to yellow and fall, and lift the bulbs to cure in the sun.
Shallots grow best in full sun and a soil pH of 6.0–7.0, so choose the sunniest suitable spot and test the soil before you plant. Good companions nearby include marigolds, basil, onions. Space plants 6–8 inches apart — crowding is one of the commonest causes of small harvests. Our plant-spacing calculator works out how many plants fit your bed. Plant on a cloudy day or in the evening, water in thoroughly, and mulch to hold moisture.
Common problems and fixes
| Problem | Fix |
|---|---|
| Aphids | Check plants regularly, remove by hand, and cover young plants with insect mesh. |
| Slugs | Spray off with water and encourage beneficial insects. |
| Damping off | Use fresh sterile seed mix, water from below, and give seedlings good air circulation. |
| Leggy seedlings | Move grow lights closer — a few inches above the leaves — and give 14–16 hours of light a day. |
| Seed not germinating | Check the seed is fresh and the compost is moist; shallots seed takes 7–14 days to germinate. |
Small bulbs
Seedlings went out too late or too small, or the soil is poor. Start seed early and enrich the bed with compost.
Damping off
Seedlings collapse at soil level. Use fresh sterile mix and water from below.
Bulbs rot in the ground
Wet soil. Shallots need sharp drainage — raise the bed or add grit if your soil holds water.
Frequently asked questions
Is it better to grow shallots from seed or sets?
Sets are easier and more reliable — plant them directly outdoors in spring. Seed is cheaper and gives more plants, but needs an indoor start 8–10 weeks before your last frost.
How long do shallots take to grow?
Shallots take 90–120 days to mature. Seed-grown plants need the full season, which is why an early start matters.
When do I harvest shallots?
When the tops yellow and fall over. Lift the bulbs, cure them in the sun for a week or two, then store somewhere cool and dry.
How long do shallots seeds take to germinate?
Shallots seed takes 7–14 days to germinate in suitable conditions. Keep the compost moist and at room temperature, and use fresh seed — old seed germinates slowly or not at all. Our germination-time calculator can help you work out the timing for your sowing.
Can I use old shallots seed?
Check it first. Seed viability falls with age and poor storage, so test a few seeds on damp kitchen paper before sowing a whole tray. Our seed-viability checker walks you through the test.