Shallots are the cook's onion: milder, sweeter and more refined than a bulb onion, with a delicate flavour that lifts a vinaigrette or a sauce in a way no onion can. They are also one of the easiest alliums to grow, and one of the most productive — plant one shallot and harvest a cluster of five or six.
They take 90–120 days to mature and they are hardy, so they go in early and come out in midsummer, in time to cure and store for months. If you only grow one onion-family crop, make it shallots.
Shallots at a glance
| Growing factor | What shallots need |
|---|---|
| Sun | full sun |
| Soil pH | 6.0–7.0 |
| Days to germination | 7–14 |
| Days to maturity | 90–120 |
| Spacing | 6–8 inches |
| Water needs | moderate |
| Cold tolerance | hardy |
| Family | Amaryllidaceae |
Starting seeds
Shallots are direct-sown outdoors — they do not transplant well, so start them where they will grow. Sow the seed at the depth on the packet, in rows spaced for the mature plant, and keep the seedbed evenly moist until seedlings appear, which takes 7–14 days.
Because the seed goes straight into the garden, timing matters more than with transplants: sow too early into cold, wet soil and germination stalls, sow too late and the plants run out of season. Use our frost-date calculator and the hardiness-zone finder to place your sowing window, and check your local extension service for the dates that fit your area.
Shallots are usually grown from sets — small bulbs planted in spring — but they can also be direct-sown from seed, which takes 7–14 days to germinate. Sets are faster and more reliable: push each set into the soil so the tip just shows, spacing them 6–8 inches apart. Plant in early spring in Zones 3–6, in late winter to early spring in Zones 7–9, and in autumn in Zones 10–11 for an early summer harvest; in frost-free Zones 11–13 plant in the cool season. Seed-sown shallots need a longer season, so start them early.
Transplanting and planting out
Shallots are not transplanted — sets go straight into their final position, and seed-sown plants are thinned rather than moved. Thin seedlings to 6–8 inches apart once they are big enough to handle. Keep the bed weed-free, because shallots compete badly with weeds, and do not earth them up: the bulbs need sun on their shoulders to ripen. A light hoe between the rows, taking care not to nick the shallow bulbs, is all the cultivation they need.
When you set plants out, space them 6–8 inches apart — that spacing is what the mature plant needs, and crowding is one of the commonest causes of small harvests. Our plant-spacing calculator works out how many plants fit your bed, and the square-foot garden planner can lay the bed out for you. Harden seedlings off for a week before planting out, moving them outside for longer each day, and plant on a cloudy day or in the evening so they do not wilt in their first hours outdoors.
Soil and feeding
Shallots want light, well-drained, fertile soil at pH 6.0–7.0 — heavy, wet soil rots them. Dig in well-rotted compost before planting, but avoid fresh manure, which encourages soft growth and disease. They are light feeders, so one modest feed in late spring is enough; too much nitrogen late in the season delays ripening and hurts storage. A sunny, open site helps the bulbs dry and ripen.
Aim for a soil pH of 6.0–7.0 — a simple soil test will tell you where you stand, and garden lime or sulfur can nudge pH up or down over a season. Feed lightly and steadily rather than in one heavy dose: too much fast nitrogen late in the season pushes leafy growth at the expense of the part you eat. Our fertiliser calculator works out amounts for your bed size, and the raised-bed soil calculator and soil-volume calculator tell you how much mix a new bed needs. A mulch layer after planting keeps the soil moist and cool and feeds the soil as it breaks down.
Watering
Water needs are moderate: keep the soil evenly moist through the growing season, watering deeply when the top inch or two dries out. Deep, infrequent watering builds deeper roots than a daily sprinkle, and it keeps the plants steady through dry spells.
Water needs are moderate, with one important rule: water well while the bulbs are forming in late spring and early summer, then stop. Once the tops start to yellow and fall over, the bulbs are ripening, and water at that stage invites rot and ruins storage. In a dry spring, water deeply once a week; in a wet one, leave them alone. Mulch lightly early on, but pull the mulch back as harvest approaches so the soil dries.
Water at the base of the plant, in the morning, so the leaves dry quickly and the water reaches the roots instead of evaporating off the surface. A soaker hose or drip line is ideal. Our watering calculator gives a starting point for your bed size and soil, and the watering schedule generator can build a routine around it. Mulch is your best friend here: a few inches of straw or shredded leaves cuts evaporation and keeps moisture even between waterings.
Sunlight and temperature
Shallots need full sun and an open, airy site — shade and still air invite disease. They are hardy, so early spring planting is safe even where frosts linger, and the young shoots shrug off a late frost. In Zones 8–10 an autumn planting overwinters easily and gives an early harvest; in frost-free Zones 11–13 plant in the cool season and harvest before the heat arrives.
This crop is rated hardy for cold tolerance, so plan your season around that: hardy and frost-tolerant crops can be sown and harvested around frosts, while tender crops need warm soil and frost-free nights. Our sunlight calculator can check whether your spot gets enough sun through the season, and the hardiness-zone finder will confirm your zone. If your summers run very hot, afternoon shade or a shade cloth can keep a cool-season crop productive for a few extra weeks.
Pests and diseases
Shallots share the onion family's pests, though they are generally healthier than bulb onions. The ones to expect are aphids, slugs and cutworms.
- Aphids — cluster on young leaves in spring. Wash them off with water and keep plants growing strongly.
- Slugs — chew young shoots in damp springs. Pick them off at dusk and keep the bed clear of debris.
- Cutworms — cut young plants at soil level overnight. Protect with cardboard collars and check the soil at the base of damaged plants.
Inspect plants weekly, especially the undersides of leaves, and act early — a small problem caught in time is a hand-picked handful of pests, while a late one can cost the crop. Row cover keeps many flying pests off young plants, and healthy, well-watered plants resist attack far better than stressed ones. If you need help identifying what you are seeing, our pest-identifier helper and plant-disease checker walk through the symptoms.
Companion plants
Shallots grow well with marigolds, basil, onions and lettuce. Their strong scent is said to deter pests from neighbouring crops, which makes them a useful edging plant for a vegetable bed, and lettuce fills the ground between the rows while the bulbs are small. Avoid planting shallots near beans and peas, which dislike the onion family.
Good companions for shallots include:
- Marigolds
- Basil
- Onions
- Lettuce
Our companion-planting finder can suggest more pairings for your bed plan. As a general rule, avoid planting members of the same family (Amaryllidaceae) in the same spot year after year — rotate beds so soil-borne problems do not build up.
Harvesting
Harvest when the tops yellow and fall over, from about 90 days after sowing or planting sets. Ease the clusters out with a fork on a dry day and leave them to dry in the sun for a few days — good curing is what makes shallots store for months. Once the necks are dry and papery, trim the tops, rub off loose skin, and store the bulbs in a net bag in a cool, dry, airy place. A well-cured shallot keeps until the following spring.
Expect the crop to be ready about 90–120 days after sowing, though weather and variety shift that window by a week or two either way. Our harvest-date calculator works out your expected harvest date from your sowing date, and the vegetable-yield estimator can estimate how much a bed should produce. Harvest in the morning when plants are cool and crisp, and use a sharp knife or secateurs rather than tearing, which damages the plant and invites disease.
Common problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Small bulbs | crowding, poor soil, or late planting | Space sets 6–8 inches apart and plant early. |
| Bulbs rotting in the ground | wet soil or watering too late | Plant in well-drained soil and stop watering as tops yellow. |
| Bolting to seed | a cold snap after planting | Plant sets after the worst cold has passed. |
Small bulbs
Likely cause: crowding, poor soil, or late planting Shallots multiply, so each set needs room to form its cluster. Crowded sets stay small, and a late planting never gets the long season it needs. Plant early, space properly, and feed the soil before planting.
Bulbs rotting in the ground
Likely cause: wet soil or watering too late Rot is almost always a drainage or timing problem. Shallots need dry feet, especially as they ripen — water while bulbs form, then stop completely once the tops start to fall.
Bolting to seed
Likely cause: a cold snap after planting Sets exposed to a long cold spell can bolt. In cold zones, wait until the soil has warmed a little before planting, and choose heat-treated sets if bolting has been a problem.
Frequently asked questions
Do shallots come back every year?
No — you plant a set each spring and harvest a cluster in summer. But each set multiplies into five or six bulbs, so a small bag of sets goes a long way.
When do I harvest shallots?
When the tops yellow and fall over, about 90 days after planting. Lift on a dry day and cure them in the sun for a few days before storing.
How do I store shallots?
Cure them until the necks are dry and papery, then keep them in a net bag in a cool, dry, airy place. Well-cured shallots store for months.
Can I grow shallots from seed?
Yes — seed takes 7–14 days to germinate and needs a longer season than sets, but it is cheaper and gives more choice of variety. Most gardeners grow from sets for reliability.
Why are my shallots so small?
Usually crowding or late planting. Space sets 6–8 inches apart, plant early, and make sure the soil is fertile and well drained.