Scallions — spring onions, green onions, bunching onions, whatever you call them — are the fastest, easiest crop in the vegetable garden. Sow them, ignore them for a couple of months, and pull crisp, mild green onions for salads, stir-fries and garnishes all season long.
They take just 60–70 days to mature, they are hardy, and they are the perfect succession crop: sow a short row every few weeks from spring to late summer and you will never be without them. They also grow beautifully in pots on a sunny windowsill.
Scallions at a glance
| Growing factor | What scallions need |
|---|---|
| Sun | full sun |
| Soil pH | 6.0–7.0 |
| Days to germination | 7–14 |
| Days to maturity | 60–70 |
| Spacing | 2–3 inches |
| Water needs | moderate |
| Cold tolerance | hardy |
| Family | Amaryllidaceae |
Starting seeds
Scallions are direct-sown outdoors — they do not transplant well, so start them where they will grow. Sow the seed at the depth on the packet, in rows spaced for the mature plant, and keep the seedbed evenly moist until seedlings appear, which takes 7–14 days.
Because the seed goes straight into the garden, timing matters more than with transplants: sow too early into cold, wet soil and germination stalls, sow too late and the plants run out of season. Use our frost-date calculator and the hardiness-zone finder to place your sowing window, and check your local extension service for the dates that fit your area.
Scallions are direct-sown, and germination takes 7–14 days. Sow thinly in shallow drills, barely covering the seed, and keep the soil moist until seedlings appear. Sow from early spring in Zones 3–6, through most of the year in Zones 7–9, and in the cool season in frost-free Zones 11–13. For a continuous supply, sow a short row every two to three weeks rather than one big sowing — a big sowing all matures at once, and scallions do not wait. Sow a little thickly and thin to 2–3 inches apart, eating the thinnings.
Transplanting and planting out
Scallions are not transplanted — they are sown where they will grow, and the only moving they need is thinning. Thin seedlings to 2–3 inches apart once they are a few inches tall, and use the thinnings in the kitchen. Because the plants are small and shallow-rooted, keep the bed weed-free by hand; a hoe is too clumsy between such close rows. Scallions also make a good edging crop along the side of a bed, where they use space other crops waste.
When you set plants out, space them 2–3 inches apart — that spacing is what the mature plant needs, and crowding is one of the commonest causes of small harvests. Our plant-spacing calculator works out how many plants fit your bed, and the square-foot garden planner can lay the bed out for you. Harden seedlings off for a week before planting out, moving them outside for longer each day, and plant on a cloudy day or in the evening so they do not wilt in their first hours outdoors.
Soil and feeding
Scallions want light, fertile, well-drained soil at pH 6.0–7.0, with compost dug in before sowing. They are light feeders, so one application of balanced fertiliser at sowing time is usually enough, though a liquid feed halfway through the season helps in poor soil. The key is a fine, crumbly seedbed: lumpy soil gives patchy germination, so rake the surface smooth before you sow.
Aim for a soil pH of 6.0–7.0 — a simple soil test will tell you where you stand, and garden lime or sulfur can nudge pH up or down over a season. Feed lightly and steadily rather than in one heavy dose: too much fast nitrogen late in the season pushes leafy growth at the expense of the part you eat. Our fertiliser calculator works out amounts for your bed size, and the raised-bed soil calculator and soil-volume calculator tell you how much mix a new bed needs. A mulch layer after planting keeps the soil moist and cool and feeds the soil as it breaks down.
Watering
Water needs are moderate: keep the soil evenly moist through the growing season, watering deeply when the top inch or two dries out. Deep, infrequent watering builds deeper roots than a daily sprinkle, and it keeps the plants steady through dry spells.
Water needs are moderate, but scallions are shallow-rooted and dry out fast — a dry spell makes them tough and hot-flavoured. Water little and often, keeping the top few inches of soil moist, especially in the first weeks after germination. Mulch between rows with fine compost or grass clippings to hold moisture in, and water in the morning so the leaves dry during the day.
Water at the base of the plant, in the morning, so the leaves dry quickly and the water reaches the roots instead of evaporating off the surface. A soaker hose or drip line is ideal. Our watering calculator gives a starting point for your bed size and soil, and the watering schedule generator can build a routine around it. Mulch is your best friend here: a few inches of straw or shredded leaves cuts evaporation and keeps moisture even between waterings.
Sunlight and temperature
Scallions need full sun for the fastest growth, though they tolerate light shade — a slightly shaded row just grows a little more slowly, which can be useful for succession sowings in summer. They are hardy, so spring and autumn sowings take light frosts in their stride, and in Zones 8–10 they can be grown through winter. In hot summers, a little afternoon shade keeps them mild and crisp rather than tough.
This crop is rated hardy for cold tolerance, so plan your season around that: hardy and frost-tolerant crops can be sown and harvested around frosts, while tender crops need warm soil and frost-free nights. Our sunlight calculator can check whether your spot gets enough sun through the season, and the hardiness-zone finder will confirm your zone. If your summers run very hot, afternoon shade or a shade cloth can keep a cool-season crop productive for a few extra weeks.
Pests and diseases
Scallions have few pest problems, and their onion scent deters many insects. The ones to expect are aphids, slugs and cutworms.
- Aphids — cluster on young leaves in spring. Wash them off with water; the plants usually outgrow a light attack.
- Slugs — chew young seedlings in damp weather. Pick them off at dusk and keep the bed clear of debris.
- Cutworms — cut young seedlings at soil level overnight. Check the soil at the base of damaged plants and protect new sowings with collars.
Inspect plants weekly, especially the undersides of leaves, and act early — a small problem caught in time is a hand-picked handful of pests, while a late one can cost the crop. Row cover keeps many flying pests off young plants, and healthy, well-watered plants resist attack far better than stressed ones. If you need help identifying what you are seeing, our pest-identifier helper and plant-disease checker walk through the symptoms.
Companion plants
Scallions are good neighbours for almost everything: their scent is said to deter carrot fly and aphids, so they make a useful edging around carrot and lettuce beds. Their listed companions — marigolds, basil, onions and lettuce — all share a bed happily, and lettuce and scallions sown together make efficient use of a small space. Avoid planting them next to beans and peas.
Good companions for scallions include:
- Marigolds
- Basil
- Onions
- Lettuce
Our companion-planting finder can suggest more pairings for your bed plan. As a general rule, avoid planting members of the same family (Amaryllidaceae) in the same spot year after year — rotate beds so soil-borne problems do not build up.
Harvesting
Start pulling scallions once the stems are pencil-thick, from about 60 days after sowing — you do not need to wait for a particular size, just pull them when you need them. Loosen the soil with a fork first so the roots come up cleanly, and pull the biggest ones first, leaving the rest to grow on. If you leave a few to flower, they will self-seed and give you free scallions next year, though the volunteers will be scattered.
Expect the crop to be ready about 60–70 days after sowing, though weather and variety shift that window by a week or two either way. Our harvest-date calculator works out your expected harvest date from your sowing date, and the vegetable-yield estimator can estimate how much a bed should produce. Harvest in the morning when plants are cool and crisp, and use a sharp knife or secateurs rather than tearing, which damages the plant and invites disease.
Common problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bolting to seed | heat or a cold snap | Sow little and often; water in hot weather. |
| Tough, hot-flavoured stems | drought or harvesting too late | Water little and often; pull them young. |
| Patchy germination | a lumpy seedbed or dry soil | Rake the seedbed fine and keep it moist for 7–14 days. |
Bolting to seed
Likely cause: heat or a cold snap Scallions bolt when stressed by heat or by cold followed by warmth. Succession sowing means a bolted row is no disaster — there is always another one coming — and steady watering in hot weather keeps them growing.
Tough, hot-flavoured stems
Likely cause: drought or harvesting too late A scallion left too long in dry soil turns tough and fiery. Keep the soil moist and pull them while they are young and tender — that is the whole point of a fast crop.
Patchy germination
Likely cause: a lumpy seedbed or dry soil Scallion seed is small and needs good soil contact and steady moisture. Prepare a fine seedbed, sow shallowly, and do not let the surface dry out while you wait for germination.
Frequently asked questions
How long do scallions take to grow?
About 60–70 days from sowing to pulling size, though you can start eating the thinnings much sooner.
Can I grow scallions in a pot?
Yes — they are ideal for containers. Sow thickly in a wide pot or window box in good compost, keep them watered, and pull as needed.
What's the difference between scallions and spring onions?
Very little: scallions are usually a non-bulbing type grown for the green stem, while spring onions are young bulb onions pulled early. In the kitchen they are interchangeable.
Why did my scallions bolt?
Stress — usually heat, or a cold snap followed by warmth. Succession sowings and steady watering are the fix; a bolted row can be composted and replaced.
How often should I sow scallions?
Every two to three weeks from spring to late summer, so you always have a row coming ready. They are hardy, so spring and autumn sowings are easy.