Lima beans are the summer bean for gardeners with long, warm seasons: creamy, buttery beans that are superb fresh from the pod and even better dried for winter soups. They are the bean that divides opinion at the dinner table — and the one that converts the most sceptics when it is homegrown.
They take 60–90 days to mature and they are tender, so they need warm soil and a long, hot summer. They are also the slowest bean to get going, which is why they need sowing at the right time and leaving alone to do their thing.
Lima Beans at a glance
| Growing factor | What lima beans need |
|---|---|
| Sun | full sun |
| Soil pH | 6.0–7.0 |
| Days to germination | 7–14 |
| Days to maturity | 60–90 |
| Spacing | 4–6 inches |
| Water needs | moderate |
| Cold tolerance | tender |
| Family | Fabaceae |
Starting seeds
Lima Beans are direct-sown outdoors — they do not transplant well, so start them where they will grow. Sow the seed at the depth on the packet, in rows spaced for the mature plant, and keep the seedbed evenly moist until seedlings appear, which takes 7–14 days.
Because the seed goes straight into the garden, timing matters more than with transplants: sow too early into cold, wet soil and germination stalls, sow too late and the plants run out of season. Use our frost-date calculator and the hardiness-zone finder to place your sowing window, and check your local extension service for the dates that fit your area.
Lima beans are direct-sown once the soil is thoroughly warm — they rot in cold, wet soil faster than any other bean. Germination takes 7–14 days in warm soil. In Zones 3–5 sow in late spring, after the last frost, and choose a fast variety; in Zones 6–9 sow in late spring to early summer; in frost-free Zones 11–13 sow in spring. Sow bush types 4–6 inches apart in rows, and pole types around a tall support. Never soak the seed before sowing — it cracks and rots.
Transplanting and planting out
Lima beans are not transplanted: beans hate root disturbance, and a direct-sown plant always outperforms a transplanted one. Thin seedlings to 4–6 inches apart once they are up, and give pole types a sturdy support from day one — a tall trellis, a teepee of canes, or a fence. Mulch after the plants are a few inches tall to hold moisture and keep the soil warm.
When you set plants out, space them 4–6 inches apart — that spacing is what the mature plant needs, and crowding is one of the commonest causes of small harvests. Our plant-spacing calculator works out how many plants fit your bed, and the square-foot garden planner can lay the bed out for you. Harden seedlings off for a week before planting out, moving them outside for longer each day, and plant on a cloudy day or in the evening so they do not wilt in their first hours outdoors.
Soil and feeding
Lima beans want light, well-drained, fertile soil at pH 6.0–7.0. They fix their own nitrogen, so they need very little fertiliser — a little compost at planting time is enough, and too much nitrogen gives leaves instead of beans. Avoid fresh manure. A sunny, sheltered spot helps, since the plants need heat to set pods, and a slightly raised bed warms the soil faster in spring.
Aim for a soil pH of 6.0–7.0 — a simple soil test will tell you where you stand, and garden lime or sulfur can nudge pH up or down over a season. Feed lightly and steadily rather than in one heavy dose: too much fast nitrogen late in the season pushes leafy growth at the expense of the part you eat. Our fertiliser calculator works out amounts for your bed size, and the raised-bed soil calculator and soil-volume calculator tell you how much mix a new bed needs. A mulch layer after planting keeps the soil moist and cool and feeds the soil as it breaks down.
Watering
Water needs are moderate: keep the soil evenly moist through the growing season, watering deeply when the top inch or two dries out. Deep, infrequent watering builds deeper roots than a daily sprinkle, and it keeps the plants steady through dry spells.
Water needs are moderate, but limas want steady moisture while they are flowering and setting pods — drought at that stage causes blossom drop and empty pods. Water deeply at the base, keeping the leaves dry, and mulch to hold moisture in. Once the pods start to fill, water a little less: the plants are finishing, and wet weather at harvest time invites mould on the pods.
Water at the base of the plant, in the morning, so the leaves dry quickly and the water reaches the roots instead of evaporating off the surface. A soaker hose or drip line is ideal. Our watering calculator gives a starting point for your bed size and soil, and the watering schedule generator can build a routine around it. Mulch is your best friend here: a few inches of straw or shredded leaves cuts evaporation and keeps moisture even between waterings.
Sunlight and temperature
Lima beans need full sun — at least six to eight hours a day — and heat. They are tender, so frost kills them, and a cool summer gives a poor harvest. In Zones 8–10 they thrive; in Zones 5–7 they need the warmest, most sheltered spot and an early start; in frost-free Zones 11–13 grow them in the warm season. They are the bean to plant when the soil is warm enough to sit in barefoot.
This crop is rated tender for cold tolerance, so plan your season around that: hardy and frost-tolerant crops can be sown and harvested around frosts, while tender crops need warm soil and frost-free nights. Our sunlight calculator can check whether your spot gets enough sun through the season, and the hardiness-zone finder will confirm your zone. If your summers run very hot, afternoon shade or a shade cloth can keep a cool-season crop productive for a few extra weeks.
Pests and diseases
Lima beans share the bean family's pests, and the most damage usually comes early, when seedlings are small. The ones to expect are aphids, bean beetles, slugs and cutworms.
- Aphids — cluster on young shoots and spread viruses. Wash them off with water and encourage ladybirds.
- Bean Beetles — chew lace-like holes in leaves. Pick them off by hand and grow under row cover until flowering.
- Slugs — eat young seedlings at night. Protect new sowings and pick slugs off at dusk.
- Cutworms — cut young seedlings at soil level overnight. Use cardboard collars and check the soil at the base of damaged plants.
Inspect plants weekly, especially the undersides of leaves, and act early — a small problem caught in time is a hand-picked handful of pests, while a late one can cost the crop. Row cover keeps many flying pests off young plants, and healthy, well-watered plants resist attack far better than stressed ones. If you need help identifying what you are seeing, our pest-identifier helper and plant-disease checker walk through the symptoms.
Companion plants
Lima beans grow well with marigolds, basil, onions and lettuce. As legumes they feed the soil with nitrogen, so they are good neighbours for hungry crops that follow them, and the classic Three Sisters planting — corn, beans and squash — is built around this partnership. Marigolds help keep soil pests down, and lettuce fills the ground between young plants before the beans shade it out.
Good companions for lima beans include:
- Marigolds
- Basil
- Onions
- Lettuce
Our companion-planting finder can suggest more pairings for your bed plan. As a general rule, avoid planting members of the same family (Fabaceae) in the same spot year after year — rotate beds so soil-borne problems do not build up.
Harvesting
Pick fresh limas when the pods are plump and the beans inside are clearly swollen, from about 60 days after sowing — shell them the same day for the best flavour. For dried beans, leave the pods on the plant until they are dry and papery, then shell and store in a jar. Pick regularly: a plant that is picked keeps producing, while one left with mature pods stops setting new ones.
Expect the crop to be ready about 60–90 days after sowing, though weather and variety shift that window by a week or two either way. Our harvest-date calculator works out your expected harvest date from your sowing date, and the vegetable-yield estimator can estimate how much a bed should produce. Harvest in the morning when plants are cool and crisp, and use a sharp knife or secateurs rather than tearing, which damages the plant and invites disease.
Common problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Poor germination | cold, wet soil | Wait until the soil is warm before sowing. |
| Flowers dropping without pods | heat or drought at flowering | Water steadily while plants are in flower. |
| Bean beetles skeletonising leaves | beetles feeding all summer | Pick them off by hand; grow under row cover early on. |
Poor germination
Likely cause: cold, wet soil Lima beans rot in cold soil faster than any other bean. If your first sowing fails, the soil was too cold — wait a week or two and sow again. Never soak the seed, and never sow into wet, cold ground.
Flowers dropping without pods
Likely cause: heat or drought at flowering Blossom drop is usually heat or drought stress at flowering time. Keep the soil moist, mulch well, and the plants should set pods once conditions ease.
Bean beetles skeletonising leaves
Likely cause: beetles feeding all summer Bean beetles chew lace-like holes in the leaves and can defoliate a young plant. Hand-pick them in the morning when they are slow, and cover young plants with fine mesh until they flower.
Frequently asked questions
When do I harvest lima beans?
For fresh beans, pick when the pods are plump and the beans inside are swollen — about 60–90 days after sowing. For dried beans, leave the pods until dry and papery.
Why didn't my lima beans germinate?
Cold, wet soil is the usual cause — limas rot faster than any other bean. Wait until the soil is thoroughly warm, and never soak the seed before sowing.
Are lima beans bush or pole?
Both — bush types grow about two feet tall and crop over a few weeks, while pole types climb six feet or more and crop for months. Pole types give a bigger harvest from the same ground.
Can I grow lima beans in a cool climate?
It is hard — they need a long, warm season. In Zones 3–5, choose the fastest variety, start in the warmest spot, and hope for a hot summer.
Why are my lima bean flowers falling off?
Usually heat or drought at flowering. Water steadily, mulch well, and the plants should set pods once conditions ease.