Lilies are the most elegant flower in the summer garden: tall, graceful stems topped with large, often scented blooms that fill the evening air with perfume. Asiatic lilies flower early with bright, unscented colours, Oriental lilies flower later with huge, heavily scented blooms, and both are far easier to grow than they look.
Lilies grow from bulbs, and the bulbs are planted in autumn or spring, depending on the type and your zone. They like their heads in the sun and their feet in the shade, which is why they do so well planted among low shrubs or perennials that shade the soil. Once established, a clump of lilies returns year after year and slowly multiplies, giving you more flowers every summer.
Lilies at a glance
| Growing factor | What lilies need |
|---|---|
| Sun | full sun |
| Soil pH | 6.0–7.0 |
| Days to germination | 14–28 |
| Days to maturity | 90–120 |
| Spacing | 12–18 inches apart |
| Water needs | moderate |
| Cold tolerance | hardy |
| Family | Liliaceae |
Starting seeds
Lilies are grown from bulbs, not from seed, and the bulbs go straight into the ground where they are to flower. Plant in autumn, while the soil is still workable and before it freezes hard — in Zones 3–5 that usually means early to mid-autumn, in Zones 6–8 mid to late autumn, and in Zones 9–10 late autumn. Zones 11–13 are frost-free, so lilies there are usually grown as short-season annuals or in pots with pre-chilled bulbs, and exact timing is best confirmed with your local extension service. Set each bulb at roughly three times its own depth, pointed end up, in soil that drains freely — bulbs sitting in wet soil rot instead of rooting. Germination figures for seed (14–28 days) do not apply to bulb planting: roots form within a few weeks of planting, and shoots appear in spring. Our seed spacing calculator helps you work out how many bulbs fit a bed, and the frost date calculator pins down your local autumn window.
Transplanting and planting out
Bulbs need no transplanting — they are planted once and left alone, which is one reason lilies are so easy. If a clump gets crowded after a few years, lift the bulbs after the foliage has died back, separate them, and replant at the same 12–18-inch spacing. Never cut the leaves off while they are still green: they feed the bulb for next year's flowers.
Soil and feeding
Lilies need soil that drains sharply — wet winter soil rots bulbs faster than anything else. Dig in grit or coarse compost on heavy clay, and never plant bulbs in a hollow where water collects. The soil pH target is 6.0–7.0. Feed is simple: a handful of balanced fertiliser or compost worked into the planting hole is enough, and a light feed as shoots emerge in spring helps the bulbs build up for next year. Our fertiliser calculator works out how much to apply, and the soil volume calculator helps if you are filling a raised bed.
Watering
Lilies need water while they are growing in spring, but they want to be dry once the foliage dies back — summer wet is what rots dormant bulbs. Water when the soil is dry in spring, then stop watering once the leaves yellow. In pots, keep them barely moist over summer. Our watering calculator gives a starting point for your bed size, and the watering schedule generator can build a routine around it.
Sunlight and temperature
Lilies need full sun — at least six hours of direct sun a day. Lilies are hardy and tolerate frost and cold weather well, so they can be planted out earlier and left in the ground over winter in most zones. In frost-free Zones 11–13, heat and a lack of winter chill can limit performance, so give them the coolest spot you have. Check your zone with the hardiness zone finder before choosing varieties. Our sunlight calculator can check whether your spot gets enough sun.
Pests and diseases
The pests and diseases to watch for on lilies are aphids, slugs, cutworms. Aphids can cluster on buds and stems, and slugs may eat young shoots. The red lily beetle is the pest to watch for in some regions — bright red beetles that eat leaves and flowers, best picked off by hand. Check plants weekly, looking under leaves as well as on top, and act early. Hand-pick larger pests, knock aphids off with a strong spray of water, and remove badly affected leaves. Keep the area weed-free and avoid wetting the foliage when you water, since damp leaves invite fungal disease. Our pest identifier helper can help identify what you are seeing, and the plant disease checker helps narrow down leaf and stem problems.
Companion plants
Good companions for lilies are lavender, marigolds, garlic, chives. Lavender, marigolds, garlic and chives are good companions, and low-growing plants around the base keep the soil cool and shaded, which lilies like. Our companion planting finder can suggest more pairings for your bed plan.
Harvesting
Cut lilies for the vase when the first bud is showing colour and just starting to open — the remaining buds will open in water over the next few days. Remove the pollen anthers if you do not want orange stains on clothes and tablecloths. After flowering, deadhead but leave the stem and leaves to die back naturally so the bulb stores food for next year. In autumn, mulch the bed to protect the bulbs over winter. Our harvest date calculator can estimate your picking date from your sowing date, and the vegetable yield estimator helps you work out how much a bed will produce.
Common problems and fixes
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Red lily beetles | bright red beetles eating leaves and flowers | Inspect plants regularly and pick beetles off by hand. |
| Stems flop over | tall stems in wind or shade | Stake tall varieties and plant in full sun with shelter. |
| Bulbs rot | wet winter soil | Plant in free-draining soil and avoid waterlogged spots. |
Red lily beetles
Red lily beetles are unmistakable — bright scarlet, about the size of a ladybird — and they and their larvae can strip a lily of leaves in days. Check the undersides of leaves from spring onwards, pick off any beetles and larvae you find, and crush the orange egg clusters.
Stems flop over
A tall Oriental lily in full flower is top-heavy, and wind or shade makes it lean and flop. Stake stems when they are about half grown, plant in a sheltered spot, and give them full sun so the stems grow sturdy rather than stretched.
Bulbs rot
Lily bulbs rot in soil that stays wet over winter, especially on clay. Plant on a slope or in raised beds, dig grit into the planting hole, and never plant lilies where water collects after rain.
Frequently asked questions
How long does it take to grow lilies?
From planting to maturity takes 90–120 days. Seed germination takes 14–28 days, and the total time depends on whether you start from seed, a nursery plant, or a bulb or cutting.
How far apart should I plant lilies?
Space lilies 12–18 inches apart. That spacing gives each plant room for air movement, which keeps disease down, and room to reach its full size without crowding its neighbours.
What soil pH do lilies need?
Lilies prefer a soil pH of 6.0–7.0. Test your soil before amending it — most garden soils are close enough, and guessing with lime or sulphur can do more harm than good.
When do lilies flower?
It depends on the type: Asiatic lilies flower in early summer, Oriental lilies in late summer, and the data puts maturity at 90–120 days from planting. Planting a mix of types gives flowers across the whole summer.
Do lilies need staking?
Tall varieties usually do, especially Oriental lilies, which can reach 1.5 metres or more with heavy flower heads. Stake them when they are half grown, before they start to lean, and tie loosely as they grow.