Growing nasturtiums in USDA Zone 2 means gardening with a short, cool season and winter lows in the range -50 to -40°F. The average last spring frost falls in the range June 1 to June 15 and the average first autumn frost in the range August 15–September 1. Those are USDA/NOAA zone averages, not promises for any one garden — check your local extension service. This guide covers when to plant nasturtiums in Zone 2, and what soil, spacing, sun, water and care it needs.
Zone 2 at a glance
USDA Zone 2 has average winter lows of -50 to -40°F, and frost can linger into late spring and return early in autumn. Choose varieties suited to a short season, start indoors where the crop allows it, and protect plants at both ends of the season — a cold frame, cloche or low tunnel is often the difference between a harvest and an empty bed.
| Detail | Zone 2 guidance |
|---|---|
| Average last spring frost | June 1 to June 15 (average/range) |
| Average first autumn frost | August 15–September 1 (average/range) |
| Days to germination | 7–14 days |
| Days to maturity | 50–60 days |
| Sowing | Direct, after June 1 to June 15 |
| Transplanting | — (direct sown) |
| Bloom | July 21 to August 14 |
| Sun | full sun |
| Soil pH | 6.0–7.5 |
| Spacing | 8–12 inches |
| Water needs | moderate |
When to plant nasturtiums in Zone 2
Sow nasturtiums directly outdoors only after the average last frost, in the range June 1 to June 15 in Zone 2, when the soil has warmed. The average first autumn frost falls in the range August 15–September 1, leaving a frost-free season of about two to three months in an average year. Those are USDA/NOAA zone averages, not promises for any one garden — check your local extension service. Allow 50–60 days to bloom, roughly July 21 to August 14, so do not sow late: a sowing made in midsummer may run out of season. The planting calendar hub gives the Zone 2 picture month by month, and the frost date calculator turns your frost averages into sowing dates.
Starting nasturtiums in Zone 2
Sow seed directly where it will grow, in warm, moist soil, and keep the seed bed damp until seedlings emerge. Seeds germinate in 7–14 days when the soil is warm. Protect young seedlings from slugs and birds for the first fortnight, and thin to the spacing below once they have a few true leaves. Nasturtiums are easy direct-sown annuals that prefer poor soil: in rich soil they produce leaves at the expense of flowers. Sow after the last frost, where they will grow, and do not feed them.
If a late frost is forecast after you have planted out, cover plants overnight with fleece, an upturned bucket or a cloche, and remove the cover in the morning so plants do not overheat.
Soil, spacing, sun and water
Nasturtiums grows best in full sun, in soil with a pH of 6.0–7.5. Test your soil through your local extension service rather than guessing, and dig in well-rotted compost before planting to improve drainage and moisture holding. Space plants 8–12 inches apart — in a short season it is tempting to crowd plants in, but crowded plants stay small and invite disease, so use a plant spacing calculator if you are laying out a bed. Nasturtiums needs moderate water: water when the top inch of soil feels dry, water at the base in the morning, and mulch to hold moisture.
Companion planting
Good companions for nasturtiums include lavender, marigolds, garlic, chives. The companion planting finder can suggest combinations for your whole bed.
Pests and problems
The common pests and problems to watch for with nasturtiums are aphids, slugs, cutworms. Inspect plants regularly, especially the undersides of leaves, and act early: hand-pick larger pests, wash aphids off with a strong jet of water, and remove badly affected leaves rather than waiting for the problem to spread. A pest identifier helper can help narrow down what is eating your plants.
Cold is the biggest problem in Zone 2, ahead of any pest: a late spring frost or an early autumn frost can end the season overnight, so keep row cover ready and cover plants whenever frost is forecast.
Bloom, cutting and aftercare
Pick nasturtium flowers and young leaves for salads, where they add a peppery bite, and pickle the green seed pods as poor-man's capers. Harvest flowers in the morning, when they are fresh, and eat them the same day.
For nasturtiums, the harvest is the flowering season itself — size, colour and firmness tell you more than any date. Pick or cut in the morning, handle gently, and use the harvest promptly. Use a harvest date calculator to estimate your harvest window from your sowing or transplant date. If frost is forecast before the crop has finished, pick what you can rather than losing it to one cold night.
Related guide in this series: Sweet Peas in Zone 2. The Zone 1 version, Nasturtiums in Zone 1, shows how much shorter the season gets further north.
Frequently asked questions
When should I plant nasturtiums in Zone 2?
Work back from the average last frost in the range June 1 to June 15: start indoors where needed, sow hardy types a few weeks before that date, and do not put tender plants outside until frost is past. Check your local extension service — these are zone averages.
Can I grow nasturtiums outdoors in Zone 2?
Yes, with the right variety and timing — but be realistic: the frost-free window is about two to three months, so choose short-season varieties, start indoors where possible, and use a cloche or low tunnel for tender plants.
How long does nasturtiums take to grow in Zone 2?
Seeds germinate in 7–14 days, and the crop takes 50–60 days to maturity. In Zone 2, cool soil can slow growth, so allow the longer end of the range.
What soil and spacing does nasturtiums need in Zone 2?
Nasturtiums needs full sun and soil pH 6.0–7.5, spaced 8–12 inches apart. Dig in well-rotted compost, water deeply, mulch, and test your soil through your local extension service.