Spring pruning is not about cutting everything back — it is about knowing what to prune now, what was already pruned in winter, and what must be left alone until after it flowers. Prune the wrong plant at the wrong time and you cut off the flowers you were waiting all year for; prune nothing at all and shrubs become tangled, roses become leggy, and fruit trees carry too much unproductive wood. The rule that governs almost everything is simple: prune spring-flowering shrubs after they flower, prune summer-flowering shrubs in spring, and prune fruit trees in late winter, not spring. This guide explains how that rule works in practice.
What to prune in spring
Summer-flowering shrubs are the main spring pruning job, because they flower on new wood — the growth they are about to make. Buddleia, hydrangeas that flower on new wood, roses, fuchsias, lavender, caryopteris and potentilla are all pruned in spring, once the worst of the frost has passed but before growth starts in earnest. Cut them back hard: buddleia can be cut to a low framework, roses to outward-facing buds, and lavender to just above the old wood, never into it, because lavender does not regrow from old, woody stems. Our pruning calendar helps you plan the timing for your plants.
Spring is also the time to prune evergreen shrubs lightly, to shape them and remove winter damage, and to cut back ornamental grasses and perennials that were left standing over winter. Cut grasses down to a few inches above the ground before new growth starts, and cut back dead perennial stems to the base. Remove any stems that are dead, damaged or diseased from every plant — dead wood is recognisable because it is brown and brittle inside when you scratch the bark, while live wood is green. Check your local extension service if you are unsure whether a plant should be pruned in spring.
What was pruned in winter — and what to leave alone
Most fruit trees and bushes were pruned in late winter, while they were dormant, and they should not be pruned again in spring except to remove damaged wood or suckers. Apples, pears, plums, currants and gooseberries are pruned in winter because their structure is visible without leaves and the wounds heal before growth starts; pruning them hard in spring, when sap is rising, causes bleeding and weak regrowth. If you missed the winter window, do only light corrective pruning in spring and wait until next winter for the main work.
Spring-flowering shrubs must be left alone in spring: forsythia, lilac, camellia, azalea, rhododendron, magnolia and flowering currant all flower on wood made last year, so pruning them in spring removes the flowers. Prune them immediately after flowering instead, which gives them the whole summer to make the wood that will flower next year. The same applies to spring-flowering climbers such as clematis that flower on old wood, and to hedges of spring-flowering shrubs. If you are unsure whether a shrub flowers on old or new wood, leave it alone until after it flowers — that is always the safe choice.
Roses, fruit and herbs in spring
Roses are the classic spring pruning job. Once the risk of hard frost has passed, cut out dead, weak and crossing stems, open up the centre of the plant so air can move through it, and cut the remaining stems back to an outward-facing bud. Our growing guide for growing roses covers rose care through the year. Climbing roses are pruned differently: tie in new stems horizontally, which encourages flowering shoots, and remove only dead or very old wood in spring.
Fruit bushes need only light spring work: remove dead wood and any suckers from the base, and check ties and supports before the weight of the crop arrives. Herbs are pruned lightly in spring: cut back woody herbs such as lavender, rosemary and sage to fresh growth, but never cut into old wood that has no leaves, because it will not regrow. Soft herbs such as mint and oregano can be cut back hard in spring, and they will regrow vigorously. Our spring herb care guide covers herb care in detail.
How to prune: tools and technique
Use the right tool: secateurs for stems up to about the thickness of a pencil, loppers for thicker branches, and a pruning saw for anything thicker still. Tools must be sharp and clean — blunt tools crush stems and leave wounds that heal slowly, and dirty tools spread disease from one plant to the next. Clean blades with a cloth and a little rubbing alcohol or disinfectant between plants, especially after cutting diseased wood. Wear gloves and eye protection when pruning thorny plants such as roses and berberis.
Cut just above an outward-facing bud, at a slight angle so water runs off the cut, and cut close enough to the bud that no long stub is left to die back. Remove whole stems at their base rather than leaving stubs, and cut out crossing stems that rub against each other, because the rubbing wounds let disease in. Step back often and look at the shape of the plant: the aim is an open, balanced framework, not a plant cut into a ball. Remove no more than a third of a plant in one year, unless it is a plant that is pruned hard every spring, such as buddleia.
After pruning: feeding, mulching and watching
After pruning, the plant puts its energy into new growth, so spring is a good time to feed and mulch. Apply a balanced fertiliser or a mulch of compost around the base — see our spring fertilizing guide and spring mulching guide — keeping both away from the stems. Water newly pruned plants if the weather is dry, because they need water to fuel the new growth. Watch the new shoots for pests, especially aphids, which love soft spring growth, and check our spring pest control guide for what to look for.
Do not seal pruning cuts with paint or sealant: research has shown that trees heal better when cuts are left open to the air, and sealant can trap moisture and disease. Large cuts on trees should be made cleanly and left to heal naturally. If a plant fails to regrow after spring pruning, check that you did not cut into old wood that cannot regrow, and check your local extension service for advice.
Frequently asked questions
What should I prune in spring?
Summer-flowering shrubs such as buddleia, roses, lavender and fuchsia, ornamental grasses, perennials, and dead or damaged wood on any plant. Fruit trees were pruned in winter and need only light work now.
What should I not prune in spring?
Spring-flowering shrubs such as forsythia, lilac, camellia and magnolia, which flower on last year's wood. Prune them immediately after flowering instead.
When is it too late to prune roses in spring?
Prune roses once hard frost has passed and before growth is well under way. Late pruning is better than no pruning, but very late pruning delays flowering.
Can I prune fruit trees in spring?
Only lightly, to remove dead or damaged wood. The main pruning of apples, pears and other fruit trees is done in late winter while they are dormant.
Should I seal pruning cuts?
No. Leave cuts open to the air — trees heal better that way, and sealant can trap moisture and disease. If you are unsure about a cut, check your local extension service for advice.