A lawn in spring looks tired: pale, thin in places, marked by moss, worm casts and the damage of a wet winter. It is also about to grow faster than at any other time of year, and the work you do in spring decides how it looks all summer. Spring lawn care is a sequence, not a single job: clear and rake, mow for the first time, feed, deal with moss and weeds, overseed the bare patches, and repair the edges. Done in the right order, it turns a winter-worn lawn into a thick, green sward; done in the wrong order — feeding before mowing, or seeding before the soil warms — it wastes effort and money.
The first jobs: clearing, raking and the first mow
Start by clearing the lawn of leaves, twigs and debris, and raking off worm casts on a dry day, so they do not smear into the turf. Then rake the lawn lightly with a spring-tine rake to lift dead grass and thatch, and to stand the grass blades up before mowing. This is also the time to look at the lawn properly: where is it thin, where is moss growing, where are the bare patches, and where has the winter left damage? Make a note, because the rest of spring lawn care follows from what you see.
The first mow should be on a dry day, with the mower set high — take only the tips off the grass, no more than a third of its height. A lawn scalped by a low first cut is weakened for weeks, and the bare soil that is exposed invites weeds. Mow little and often through spring, lowering the height gradually as growth speeds up, and leave the clippings on the lawn if you mow regularly, because they feed the grass as they break down. Never mow wet grass, and never mow when the ground is frosty. Check your local extension service if you are unsure about mowing heights for your grass type.
Feeding the lawn in spring
A lawn that is growing needs feeding, and spring is the main feeding season. Apply a spring lawn fertiliser once the grass is growing actively — usually mid-spring — at the label rate, spreading it evenly so there are no stripes of dark green where the fertiliser fell thickly and pale patches where it missed. Water the fertiliser in if rain is not forecast, because fertiliser sitting on dry grass scorches it. Our spring fertilizing guide explains the general principles, and the fertiliser calculator helps you work out quantities.
Do not feed a lawn that is not growing, a lawn that is drought-stressed, or a lawn that has just been scarified — wait until it is recovering and growing before feeding. A light feed in spring and another in early summer is better than one heavy feed, which produces soft, sappy growth that is prone to disease. If you prefer not to use fertiliser, a top-dressing of compost in spring feeds the lawn gently and improves the soil — spread it thinly, work it into the turf with a brush, and water it in.
Moss, weeds and bare patches
Moss grows where the lawn is damp, shady, compacted or starved, and spring is the time to deal with it. Rake moss out with a spring-tine rake, then address the cause: improve drainage by aerating compacted soil with a garden fork or a hollow-tine aerator, prune overhanging branches to let in light, and feed the lawn so the grass outcompetes the moss. Moss killer is available, but it only works if the cause is fixed as well — otherwise the moss comes back within weeks.
Weeds are best dealt with by a thick, healthy lawn, which is the most effective weed control there is. Hand-pull dandelions and other broad-leaved weeds in spring, before they set seed, and use a selective weedkiller only if the problem is widespread, following the label and keeping it off flower beds. Bare patches should be overseeded in spring, once the soil has warmed: rake the patch, scatter seed, rake it lightly in, water it, and keep it moist until the seed germinates. Protect the patch from birds with netting, and do not mow it until the new grass is several inches tall.
Aeration, top-dressing and edging
Aeration — spiking the lawn to let air, water and nutrients reach the roots — is one of the most useful spring jobs, especially on a lawn that is compacted by winter use. Push a garden fork into the turf every few inches across the lawn, rocking it back to open the holes, or use a hollow-tine aerator for a larger lawn. Follow aeration with a top-dressing of compost or a sandy loam, brushed into the holes, which improves the soil and levels small bumps. This is hard work, but it transforms a compacted lawn.
Finish by edging the lawn: cut a clean edge along paths and beds with a half-moon edger, which makes the whole garden look tidy and stops the grass creeping into the beds. Repair any damaged edges by cutting a square of turf, turning it around, and filling the gap with soil and seed. Our spring garden cleanup guide covers the wider spring tidy-up, and our spring watering guide explains when a lawn actually needs watering.
Repairing winter damage and dealing with lawn pests
Winter leaves its marks on a lawn: patches where snow or leaves smothered the grass, hollows where water stood, raised turf where frost lifted it, and bare patches where a pet or a piece of furniture sat too long. Spring is the time to repair them. For a bare patch, rake the area, loosen the soil, scatter seed, rake it lightly in and water it, then keep it moist until the seed germinates and protect it from birds with netting. For a hollow, lift the turf with a spade, fill underneath with soil, and replace the turf. For raised turf, roll it flat with a roller or press it down with your feet on a damp day, and top-dress with compost to fill the gaps.
Leatherjackets, the grubs of crane flies, and chafer grubs can damage a lawn in spring, eating the roots so the turf lifts easily and birds peck at it. A small number of grubs is normal and the lawn recovers, but a heavy infestation needs attention: water the lawn well and cover it with a black sheet overnight, which brings the grubs to the surface where birds can eat them, or use a biological control of nematodes, which are microscopic worms that kill the grubs without chemicals. Apply nematodes when the soil is warm and moist, in the evening, and water them in well. If you are unsure whether grubs are the problem, check your local extension service, who can identify the pest from a sample and advise on control.
Frequently asked questions
When should I first mow the lawn in spring?
On a dry day, once the grass is growing, with the mower set high — take only the tips off. Lower the height gradually as growth speeds up through spring.
Should I feed my lawn in spring?
Yes, once the grass is growing actively, usually mid-spring, at the label rate. A light feed in spring and another in early summer beats one heavy feed.
How do I get rid of moss in my lawn?
Rake it out, then fix the cause: aerate compacted soil, improve drainage, let in more light and feed the lawn so the grass outcompetes the moss.
When should I overseed bare patches?
In spring, once the soil has warmed. Rake the patch, sow seed, keep it moist until it germinates, and do not mow it until the new grass is established.
How often should I mow in spring?
Little and often — once a week or more as growth speeds up — never removing more than a third of the height at once. If you are unsure, check your local extension service for advice.