Most houseplants come from tropical and subtropical regions, where temperatures are warm and fairly steady all year. Indoors, that means they are comfortable in the same temperatures people are comfortable in — roughly 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit — and they suffer when temperatures swing suddenly, drop near freezing, or sit above a hot radiator. The numbers matter less than the stability: a plant that lives at a steady 65 degrees does better than one that swings between 55 at night and 85 by day. This guide explains the temperature ranges different houseplants prefer, what cold and heat damage look like, and how to protect plants through the seasons.
The comfortable range for most houseplants
Our houseplant data is consistent: the great majority of tropical foliage plants prefer 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Monstera deliciosa, golden pothos, philodendrons and hoyas all list 65 to 85. Prayer plants and calatheas prefer a slightly narrower 65 to 80, and ferns such as boston fern prefer 60 to 75. Succulents and cacti are a little more tolerant, often listing 60 to 85, and they cope better with cool nights. A home kept between 65 and 75 during the day, dropping a few degrees at night, suits almost every common houseplant.
Night temperatures matter as much as daytime ones. A drop of five to ten degrees at night is normal and harmless — in fact, many plants need a slight night drop to grow well. A drop of twenty degrees or more, or a night temperature below 55 for a tropical plant, is stressful. The most common temperature problem in winter is not the average room temperature, which is usually fine, but the cold spots: the windowsill at night, the floor by an exterior door, and the room that is left unheated. Check your local extension service if you are unsure how cold your home gets in winter.
Cold damage: signs and prevention
Cold damage shows as leaves that turn dark, water-soaked and limp, then black and papery as they die. It can happen in hours if a plant is left in a freezing draught or against a cold window overnight, and the damage is often not visible until a day or two later. Tropical plants such as fiddle-leaf fig and calatheas are the most sensitive, while succulents and snake plants tolerate a brief chill better — though even they are damaged by frost. A plant that has been cold-damaged should be moved to a warm, stable spot and left alone: do not prune the damaged leaves immediately, because it takes days to see how much tissue is truly dead, and do not feed it until it shows new growth.
Prevention is simple: keep plants away from cold windows in winter, leaving a gap between leaves and glass; do not put plants near exterior doors that open onto cold air; and never leave a plant in an unheated room, conservatory or car overnight in cold weather. When you buy a plant in winter, wrap it well for the journey home, because a few minutes in freezing air can damage a tropical plant. If a cold snap is forecast, move vulnerable plants away from windows and into the warmest room.
Heat, radiators and hot spots
Heat damage is less common than cold damage, but it happens. A plant sitting above or beside a radiator dries out fast, its leaf edges brown, and its soil dries within a day or two. A plant in a sunny window in summer can overheat, especially if the pot is dark and absorbs heat, and the roots in a small pot can cook in direct sun. Signs of heat stress are wilting despite moist soil, brown crispy leaf edges, and leaves that drop suddenly. The fix is to move the plant away from the heat source, water it thoroughly, and give it shade until it recovers.
Air conditioning is a form of cold draught, and a plant sitting in the path of a cold air-conditioning vent suffers in the same way as one in a winter draught. Keep plants out of the direct blast of both heating and cooling vents. A room that is warm but has good air movement suits plants better than a hot, still room. In summer, a plant that has been indoors all winter should be moved to a brighter spot gradually, because a sudden move into strong sun and heat scorches leaves that are used to indoor conditions.
Seasonal temperature care
Spring is the season when temperature care changes: as the heating goes off and windows open, rooms become cooler at night and draughtier, and plants that have spent the winter in a warm, still room need to adjust. Move plants away from windows that are now opened regularly, and watch for cold nights in early spring, when a late frost can chill a plant left on a sill. Summer is usually easy indoors, but watch for heat near south-facing windows and for air-conditioning draughts. Autumn is the time to bring plants back from their summer spots and check that no plant is left in a room that will go unheated. Winter needs the most attention: stable warmth, no cold draughts, and plants kept away from radiators. Our houseplants seasonal care guide covers the full seasonal routine, and our houseplants sunlight requirements guide explains how light and temperature interact.
Temperature and watering, feeding and growth
Temperature affects everything else. A plant in a warm room uses water faster and needs watering more often; the same plant in a cool room needs less water, and watering it on a warm-room schedule causes root rot. A plant in a cool room also grows slowly and needs little or no feeding, while a plant in a warm, bright room grows fast and needs regular feeding — see our fertilizing houseplants guide. If a plant's growth slows in winter, check the temperature before reaching for fertiliser: a cold plant does not need feeding, it needs warmth. Similarly, a plant that wilts in a hot room may need shade and water, not a bigger pot. When you change a plant's temperature, change its watering to match, and use the watering calculator to work out a routine for the season.
Frequently asked questions
What temperature do most houseplants like?
Most tropical houseplants prefer 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the day, with a small drop at night. A home kept at 65 to 75 suits almost every common species.
How cold is too cold for houseplants?
Below 55 degrees is stressful for most tropical plants, and below 50 can cause damage. Frost kills almost all houseplants. Keep them away from cold windows and draughts in winter.
Can houseplants get too hot?
Yes. Radiators, hot windowsills and heating vents cause brown leaf edges, wilting and rapid drying. Move the plant away from the heat source and water thoroughly.
Why did my plant's leaves turn black after a cold night?
That is cold damage: the leaf tissue froze and died. Move the plant to a warm, stable spot, wait to see how much tissue is dead before pruning, and do not feed it until it grows again.
Should I move houseplants away from windows in winter?
Leave a gap between leaves and cold glass, and move sensitive plants such as calatheas and fiddle-leaf figs away from windows on very cold nights. If you are unsure, check your local extension service for advice.