Watering herbs is not like watering vegetables. Most vegetables want steady moisture, and a missed watering shows within hours. Herbs are more varied: Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme and lavender come from dry, rocky hillsides and will rot in soil that is always wet, while basil, parsley and mint want steadier moisture and wilt quickly when they dry out. Water them all the same way, and half your herbs will suffer.
The skill is to learn the two groups, to water each one the way it wants, and to check the soil rather than watering to a schedule. This guide covers which herbs want dry soil and which want moisture, how to water, how often, and how to recognise overwatering and underwatering before the plant is damaged. Our watering calculator can help you work out quantities, and if you are unsure about watering in your soil and climate, check your local extension service for advice.
Two groups: dry-loving and moisture-loving herbs
Mediterranean herbs are the dry group. Rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano, lavender and marjoram all evolved in hot, dry, sunny places with thin, stony soil, and they store water in their small, leathery or hairy leaves. They want soil that dries out between waterings, and they will grow soft, sappy and flavourless — or rot outright — if they are kept wet. In the ground, an established rosemary or lavender plant in a well-drained bed may need no watering at all except in a long drought. In pots they need more attention, because pots dry out and wet out faster than beds, but the principle is the same: water deeply, then let the soil dry.
Moisture-loving herbs are the soft group. Basil, parsley, cilantro, mint, chives and dill all have soft, thin leaves that lose water fast, and they want soil that stays evenly moist. Basil wilts dramatically in a hot afternoon if its pot dries out, and mint in a dry pot stops growing and turns crisp at the edges. These herbs still need drainage — none of them wants to stand in water — but they should never be allowed to dry out completely. Grouping herbs by water needs, in the bed or in pots, is the single most useful thing you can do for your watering.
How to water herbs properly
Water at the base of the plant, not over the leaves. Wet leaves encourage disease, especially powdery mildew on mint and sage, and in the evening wet leaves stay damp all night, which is when most fungal diseases spread. Water in the morning, so the plant faces the day with full roots and any splashes dry quickly. Water deeply and less often, rather than sprinkling a little every day: a deep soak encourages roots to grow down into the soil, while a daily sprinkle encourages shallow roots that dry out within hours. For herbs in pots, water until it runs from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer so the plant is not standing in water.
The finger test is more reliable than any schedule. Push a finger a few centimetres into the soil: if it feels dry at that depth, water; if it still feels damp, wait. For Mediterranean herbs, wait until the soil feels dry a little deeper down; for basil and mint, water as soon as the top feels dry. A moisture meter can help in pots, but your finger is free and it works. And remember that herbs in terracotta pots dry out faster than herbs in plastic pots, and herbs in a windy spot dry out faster than herbs in a sheltered one.
How often to water: beds, pots and seasons
There is no single answer to how often herbs need water, because it depends on the herb, the soil, the pot, the weather and the season. In the ground, in a well-drained bed, established Mediterranean herbs may need watering only in a drought, while basil and parsley in the same bed may need water every few days in hot weather. In pots, the same herbs may need water every day in a heatwave and only once a week in cool, cloudy weather. In winter, most herbs need very little water — plants in cold soil use almost none, and wet, cold compost rots roots — so cut back sharply and check the soil before you water.
Newly planted herbs need more water than established ones, because their roots have not yet spread into the surrounding soil. Water a new plant deeply at planting time, and keep the soil moist for the first few weeks until it is established. Seedlings and young plants in trays need the most careful watering of all: keep the compost moist but never wet, and water from below or with a fine rose so the tiny seedlings are not washed away. Our guide to damping-off seedlings explains what happens when seedlings are kept too wet. As a rough guide, check pots daily in summer, beds every few days, and everything less often in winter — and always check the soil first.
Signs of overwatering
Overwatering kills more herbs than drought, and the signs are easy to miss because they look like the plant is thirsty. Leaves turn yellow and drop, starting with the lower leaves. The stem goes soft and dark at the base. Growth stops, even though the soil is wet. The compost smells sour or musty, and algae or mould grows on the surface. The roots, if you tip the plant out, are brown and slimy instead of white and firm. Rosemary and lavender are the classic victims: a rosemary that is watered every day in a pot without drainage will yellow, drop its leaves, and die within weeks, and the gardener, seeing a wilting plant, often waters it more.
If you catch overwatering early, stop watering and let the soil dry out. Move a potted herb to a sheltered spot out of the rain, tip out any water in the saucer, and improve drainage by repotting into grittier compost if the plant is still alive. Remove any blackened or rotted stems. In the ground, fork around the plant to improve aeration, and do not mulch a wet bed — mulch holds moisture in, which is the last thing a drowning herb needs. For more on root problems, see our guide to root rot treatment. If the plant does not recover, take a cutting from any healthy growth before it is lost — rosemary and mint both root readily from cuttings.
Signs of underwatering
Underwatering is usually easier to spot and easier to fix. Basil wilts dramatically, with its leaves flopping within hours of the soil drying out, and it usually recovers within an hour of watering — which is why basil is a good indicator plant for the whole herb garden. Mint and parsley go limp and their leaf edges turn brown and crisp. Cilantro bolts — sends up a flower stalk — when it dries out, and once it has bolted it will not produce useful leaves again. Mediterranean herbs show drought more subtly: thyme and sage grow slowly and their leaves go grey and dry, and a rosemary in a pot that has dried out completely will drop its lower leaves.
To revive a dried-out herb, water it slowly and deeply — a very dry compost can repel water, so water a little, wait, and water again, until the whole root ball is wet. For a potted herb, stand the pot in a bucket of water for half an hour so the compost soaks up moisture from below. Do not flood a dried-out plant and then leave it standing in water — that swings it from drought to drowning. Mulch the soft herbs with compost or straw to hold moisture in the soil, and group pots together in summer so they shade each other and dry out more slowly. If you are unsure how much water your soil holds, check your local extension service for advice on your soil type.
Common mistakes
The most common watering mistake is watering all herbs the same way — drowning the rosemary while the basil wilts. The second is watering on a schedule instead of checking the soil: a plant that was watered yesterday in cool, cloudy weather does not need water today. The third is watering over the leaves in the evening, which encourages mildew and rot. The fourth is using pots without drainage holes, which turns any watering into overwatering. And the fifth is letting pots dry out completely and then flooding them — steady, even moisture is what herbs want, not a cycle of drought and flood. Check the soil with your finger, water at the base in the morning, and let each herb tell you what it needs.
| Herb | Water needs | How to tell it needs water |
|---|---|---|
| Rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano, lavender | Low; let soil dry between waterings | Soil dry several cm down; overwatering shows as yellow, dropping leaves |
| Basil, parsley, cilantro | Medium-high; evenly moist | Basil wilts dramatically when dry; water as soon as top feels dry |
| Mint | High; moist soil | Leaf edges turn brown and crisp when dry; never let pot dry out fully |
| Chives, dill | Medium; steady moisture | Growth slows and leaves yellow when dry |
| Lemongrass | High in summer | Needs steady moisture in warm weather; protect from frost |
Frequently asked questions
How often should I water herbs?
There is no fixed schedule — check the soil with your finger and water when it feels dry a few centimetres down. Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and thyme need water less often, while basil, parsley and mint need steadier moisture. Pots in summer may need daily checking; beds in winter may need almost no water.
Do herbs like wet soil?
Most herbs dislike wet soil. Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and lavender will rot in constantly wet soil. Soft herbs such as basil, parsley and mint want evenly moist soil, but they still need drainage and should never stand in water.
Why is my rosemary turning yellow and dropping leaves?
Yellow, dropping leaves on rosemary usually mean overwatering or poor drainage — the roots are drowning. Stop watering, let the soil dry out, make sure the pot drains freely, and repot into grittier compost if the plant is still alive.
Why does my basil wilt every afternoon?
Basil wilts fast when its soil dries out, especially in a small pot in sun and wind. Water deeply in the morning, mulch the soil, move the pot to a spot with a little afternoon shade, and use a larger pot that holds moisture longer.
Should I water herbs in winter?
Very little. Plants in cold soil use almost no water, and wet, cold compost rots roots. Check the soil before watering, and water only if it feels dry. Pots can still dry out in cold, windy weather, so do not ignore them entirely.