Containers are the natural home for herbs. A pot of basil by the back door, a trough of thyme and rosemary on a sunny patio, a hanging basket of mint that cannot escape — containers put herbs exactly where you use them, they solve drainage problems in heavy soil, and they let you grow herbs even if you have no garden at all, just a balcony or a windowsill.

Containers also solve the two biggest herb problems. They contain mint, which would otherwise take over a bed, and they give Mediterranean herbs the sharp drainage they need, which heavy garden soil often cannot. The trade-off is that pots dry out faster than beds and need more frequent watering and feeding, and tender herbs in pots are more exposed to frost. This guide covers pot choice, soil, grouping, watering and winter care for herbs in containers. If you are unsure which herbs suit your balcony or patio, check your local extension service for advice on your exposure and climate.

Choosing pots and containers

Drainage is the first requirement: every pot must have drainage holes, and a pot without them will kill most herbs within weeks, however carefully you water. Terracotta pots are the classic choice for herbs because they are porous and let the soil breathe and dry out, which suits Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme and lavender. They dry out faster than plastic, so they need more frequent watering in summer, but that is a fair trade for the drainage. Plastic and glazed pots hold moisture longer and suit soft herbs such as basil, parsley and mint.

Size matters. A pot that is too small dries out in hours on a hot day and starves the plant of root room. As a guide, give basil and parsley a pot at least 20 to 25 centimetres across, give rosemary and mint a pot at least 30 centimetres across, and give a mixed herb trough at least 40 centimetres long. Larger pots hold moisture better and need watering less often, and they give perennial herbs room to grow for several years. Always raise pots on feet or bricks so water can drain away freely and the pot does not sit in a puddle.

The right soil mix for pots

Ordinary garden soil is too heavy for pots — it compacts, drains badly, and suffocates roots. Use a good multi-purpose compost, and improve it for herbs: mix in a third of grit, coarse sand or perlite for Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and lavender, which want sharp drainage and lean soil. For soft herbs such as basil, parsley, cilantro and mint, use compost with a little extra organic matter and less grit, because they want steadier moisture. Our potting mix calculator can help you work out quantities for your pots.

Do not reuse old potting compost without refreshing it — it will be depleted and may carry disease. Tip it onto the compost heap, or mix it with fresh compost and a slow-release fertiliser for less demanding plants. Top-dress established pots in spring: scrape off the top few centimetres of old compost and replace it with fresh compost, which feeds the plant without disturbing its roots. And never fill a pot with stones or crocks at the bottom in the belief that it improves drainage — it does the opposite, raising the water table inside the pot. Drainage holes and a free-draining mix are what matter.

Grouping herbs: what can share a pot

The rule for grouping herbs in a container is simple: group by water needs, not by looks. Mediterranean herbs that like it dry — rosemary, thyme, sage, oregano and lavender — grow well together in a large, sunny trough with gritty compost. Soft herbs that like moisture — basil, parsley, cilantro and chives — grow well together in a trough with richer compost and more frequent watering. Mix the two groups in one pot and one of them will suffer: either the rosemary rots from too much water, or the basil wilts from too little.

Some herbs should always be alone. Mint must have its own pot, because it spreads by runners and will crowd out anything planted with it within weeks. Dill and fennel grow tall and shade their neighbours, and fennel is best kept away from most other herbs entirely. Give vigorous herbs room: a trough that looks spacious in May will be crowded by July, so plant fewer herbs per container than you think you need, and let them fill the space. Our companion planting finder can help you check which herbs grow well together.

Watering and feeding herbs in pots

Pots dry out far faster than beds, especially in sun and wind, and in a heatwave a small pot can dry out in a single day. Check pots daily in summer, and water when the top few centimetres of compost feel dry. Water deeply, until water runs from the drainage holes, so the whole root ball is wetted — a light sprinkle only wets the surface and encourages shallow roots. Water in the morning, at the base of the plant, and empty the saucer under the pot so the plant is not standing in water. Our watering calculator can help you estimate how much your pots need.

Feeding is more important in pots than in beds, because the compost has a limited supply of nutrients and watering washes them out. Even so, herbs need far less feeding than vegetables. A light liquid feed at half strength once a month is enough for basil and parsley in summer, and Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and thyme often need nothing more than a spring top-dressing of compost. Over-feeding makes herbs grow soft and flavourless, so feed lightly and watch the plant: pale, slow growth means it is hungry, while lush, weak growth means it has had too much.

Which herbs grow best in containers

Almost every herb grows well in a container, but some are better suited than others. Basil is the classic pot herb — it loves the warmth of a sunny patio, it is easy to water and pinch, and it can be moved indoors at the first sign of cold. Mint is best in a pot, because the pot is what contains it. Rosemary, thyme and sage thrive in terracotta pots with gritty compost, and they can live in the same pot for years. Chives, parsley and cilantro all do well in pots, and lemongrass grows well in a large pot in a warm spot, where it can be brought under cover in winter.

Tall or deep-rooted herbs are the ones to think twice about. Fennel grows very tall and needs a deep pot, and dill dislikes transplanting, so sow it direct into its final pot. Lavender needs a large pot and excellent drainage, and it dislikes being moved. For a balcony or windowsill, start with basil, mint, chives and parsley — they are productive, forgiving, and useful every day — and add rosemary and thyme once you have a sunny spot for a larger pot.

Winter care for potted herbs

Pots are more exposed to cold than beds, because the roots are above ground and the compost can freeze solid. Tender herbs such as basil and lemongrass must come indoors or under cover before the first frost — basil is killed by even a light frost. Hardy herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and chives can stay outside in most climates, but protect their pots: move them against a sheltered wall, wrap the pots in fleece or bubble wrap, and raise them off the ground so they do not sit in water.

Reduce watering in winter — plants in cold compost need very little water, and wet, cold compost rots roots. Do not feed in winter. In spring, check each pot: tip out any plant that has died, refresh the compost, and repot any herb that has outgrown its container. A rosemary that has been in the same pot for three years will often revive dramatically with fresh compost and a larger pot. If you are unsure whether a herb will survive winter in a pot in your area, check your local extension service for the hardiness guidance that fits your climate.

Common mistakes

The most common container mistake is a pot without drainage holes, which drowns the roots. The second is planting mint with other herbs, which it crowds out within weeks. The third is mixing dry-loving and moisture-loving herbs in one pot, so one group always suffers. The fourth is using too small a pot, which dries out daily in summer and starves the plant. And the fifth is forgetting to water in winter — pots still dry out in cold, windy weather, and a rosemary in a pot can die of drought in January as easily as in July. Check your pots in every season, not just in summer.

Herb Minimum pot size Grouping Water in pots
Basil 20–25 cm With parsley, cilantro, chives Steady moisture; check daily in summer
Mint 30 cm, alone Always alone in its own pot Moist; never let it dry out fully
Rosemary 30 cm With thyme, sage, oregano, lavender Drier; let compost dry between waterings
Thyme 20 cm With rosemary, sage, oregano Drier; sharp drainage essential
Parsley 20–25 cm With basil, cilantro, chives Steady moisture
Chives 20 cm With basil, parsley Moderate; hardy perennial

Frequently asked questions

What size pot do herbs need?

Basil and parsley need a pot at least 20 to 25 centimetres across, rosemary and mint need at least 30 centimetres, and a mixed herb trough should be at least 40 centimetres long. Larger pots hold moisture better and need watering less often.

Can I grow mint with other herbs in one pot?

No — mint spreads by underground runners and will crowd out anything planted with it within weeks. Always give mint its own pot, and keep that pot free-standing rather than sunk into a bed.

How often should I water herbs in pots?

Check pots daily in summer and water when the top few centimetres of compost feel dry. Water deeply until it runs from the drainage holes, water in the morning, and empty the saucer so the plant is not standing in water.

What soil should I use for herbs in containers?

Use multi-purpose compost with grit, coarse sand or perlite mixed in for Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary and thyme, and richer compost with less grit for soft herbs such as basil and parsley. Never use ordinary garden soil in pots — it compacts and drains badly.

Do potted herbs survive winter outside?

Hardy herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and chives usually survive outside, but protect their pots against a sheltered wall, wrap them in fleece, and raise them off the ground. Tender herbs such as basil and lemongrass must come indoors before the first frost.

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