Herb garden design is about putting the right herb in the right place: herbs have very different needs, and a herb garden that groups them by sun, water and soil will thrive with little effort, while one that treats them all the same will struggle. Mediterranean herbs want sun and sharp drainage, soft leafy herbs want richer soil and more water, and mint wants to be contained or it will take over. This guide covers how to design a herb garden — in the ground, in raised beds or in pots — how to group herbs, and how to keep them productive for cooking all year.
The first design decision is location. Most culinary herbs need full sun — at least six hours a day — and a spot near the kitchen door, so they are easy to reach while cooking. Herbs by the back door get used daily; herbs at the far end of the garden get forgotten. The spot should be sheltered from strong wind, which dries herbs out, and well drained, because most herbs hate wet feet. If your soil is heavy clay, a raised bed or containers are better than open ground. A herb garden can be small: a single sunny raised bed or a cluster of pots by the door can hold all the herbs a household uses.
Grouping herbs by need
Group herbs by water and soil need, not by alphabet or appearance. Mediterranean herbs — rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage and lavender — come from hot, dry hillsides and want full sun, poor to moderate soil, sharp drainage and very little water once established. Plant them together in the sunniest, driest part of the herb garden, in gritty soil with gravel mulch. Soft leafy herbs — basil, parsley, cilantro, dill and chives — want richer, moister soil and regular water, and basil in particular needs warmth and shelter. Plant them together in a moister bed with compost-rich soil. Mint is in a group of its own: it spreads aggressively by runners, so always grow it in a pot, even if the pot is sunk into the ground. Our growing basil and growing rosemary guides cover individual herbs in detail. If you are unsure which herbs suit your climate, check your local extension service for local recommendations.
Layouts that work
The classic herb garden layout is a formal design with a central feature — a small tree, a sundial, a pot or a bird bath — and four beds radiating from it, divided by paths. It looks good and makes every bed easy to reach. A simpler and equally practical layout is a single raised bed divided into sections, or a row of containers along a sunny wall. Keep beds narrow — no more than about 1 metre wide — so you can reach every plant without stepping on the soil. Leave paths at least 45 cm wide, and use gravel or brick for paths so they stay dry and weed-free. Put tall herbs such as rosemary, bay and fennel at the back or in the centre, medium herbs such as sage and oregano in the middle, and low, spreading herbs such as thyme and creeping rosemary at the front and edges where they can spill over. Plant perennial herbs in permanent positions and leave a section of the bed free each year for annual herbs such as basil, cilantro and dill, which need sowing fresh. Use the garden planner to sketch the layout, and see our garden design basics guide for general principles.
Containers and small spaces
Containers are an excellent way to grow herbs, especially on a balcony, patio or windowsill. Use pots at least 20–25 cm across for most herbs, with drainage holes and a free-draining potting mix — never use garden soil in pots, which compacts and waterlogs. Terracotta pots suit Mediterranean herbs because they dry out between waterings, while plastic pots hold moisture better for basil and parsley. Group pots together so they shade each other and reduce watering, and put mint in its own pot away from the others. A windowsill herb garden can hold basil, parsley, chives and mint in small pots, provided the sill gets several hours of sun a day. Water containers more often than beds — they dry out fast in summer — and feed lightly with a liquid feed every few weeks. Our container gardening guide covers pots and mixes in detail.
Soil, water and feeding
Herbs generally prefer soil that is not too rich. Over-fertilised herbs grow soft and leggy, and their flavour weakens — the aromatic oils that give herbs their flavour are strongest when plants grow a little lean. Work a light dressing of compost into the bed before planting, and do not add heavy fertiliser. Our composting basics guide explains how to make it. Water Mediterranean herbs sparingly once established, and water leafy herbs regularly so they do not bolt or go bitter. Water at the base in the morning, and use drip irrigation or a watering can rather than a sprinkler. Test your soil before adding anything, and our soil pH testing guide explains how. If you are unsure what your soil needs, check your local extension service for a soil test. Mulch with gravel around Mediterranean herbs and with compost or straw around leafy herbs, keeping mulch away from stems.
Harvesting and keeping herbs productive
Harvest herbs little and often — regular picking keeps plants bushy and productive. Pick in the morning, after the dew has dried and before the sun is strong, when the aromatic oils are at their peak. For leafy herbs, pinch out the growing tips to encourage branching; for woody herbs, cut stems back by a third and never cut into old wood that has no leaves, because it may not regrow. Let some herbs flower for pollinators — bees love basil, oregano and thyme flowers — but know that flowering can change flavour and signal the end of the leafy season for annuals such as basil and cilantro. Sow annual herbs every few weeks through the season for a steady supply, and use the seed starting calculator to time sowings. Dry herbs by hanging small bunches upside down in a shady, airy place, or freeze them in oil in ice-cube trays. Prune woody herbs lightly after flowering, and replace perennial herbs every few years when they become woody and unproductive.
Common mistakes
The most common mistake is planting mint in open ground, where it spreads and takes over the whole bed — always grow mint in a pot. The second is planting Mediterranean and leafy herbs together, so one group is always over- or under-watered. The third is over-fertilising, which weakens flavour. The fourth is planting herbs in shade, where they grow leggy and flavourless. The fifth is letting basil get cold — basil has no frost tolerance and hates temperatures below about 10°C. The sixth is overwatering rosemary and lavender, which rots their roots. And the seventh is never harvesting, so herbs become woody and stop producing new growth. Pick little and often, and the herb garden will keep giving.
Frequently asked questions
Where is the best place for a herb garden?
In full sun — at least six hours a day — close to the kitchen door, on well-drained ground sheltered from strong wind. Herbs by the door get used daily. If your soil is heavy clay, use a raised bed or containers instead of open ground.
Which herbs should I grow first?
Basil, parsley, mint, chives, rosemary, thyme and oregano cover most cooking. Grow mint in a pot, keep Mediterranean herbs together in a sunny, dry spot, and keep basil warm and well watered. Check your local extension service for herbs that suit your climate.
Why does my rosemary keep dying?
Rosemary usually dies from wet soil, not from cold or drought. It needs sharp drainage, full sun and very little water once established. Plant it in gritty soil or a raised bed, never in a hollow where water collects, and do not overwater it.
How often should I water herbs?
Mediterranean herbs such as rosemary, thyme and lavender need very little water once established — water deeply only when the soil is dry. Leafy herbs such as basil, parsley and cilantro need regular water so they do not bolt. Water at the base in the morning.
Can I grow herbs indoors?
Yes, on a sunny windowsill with several hours of direct sun a day. Basil, parsley, chives and mint do best indoors; rosemary and thyme need more light and airflow than most windowsills provide. Use pots with drainage holes and a free-draining mix, and turn pots regularly so plants grow evenly.