Garden fencing does more than mark a boundary: it gives privacy, shelters plants from wind, keeps pets and children in, and keeps deer, rabbits and other animals out. The right fence depends on what you need it to do, how much you want to spend, and what suits your garden. A fence that is perfect for privacy may be wrong for a windy garden, and a fence that keeps a dog in may do nothing against a deer. This guide covers the main types of garden fence, how to choose between them, and how to build and maintain one.
Start by deciding what the fence is for. Privacy is the most common reason: a solid fence blocks the view from neighbours and passers-by, and it creates a sheltered, private space. Wind protection is the second: a fence breaks the wind, which helps plants grow and makes the garden more pleasant to sit in — but a solid fence in a windy spot can act like a sail and blow over, so a fence with small gaps that lets some wind through is often better in exposed gardens. Keeping pets and children in is the third: a fence needs to be high enough and solid enough at the base that a dog cannot jump it or dig under it. Keeping wildlife out is the fourth, and it needs a fence designed for the animal: a fence that stops a rabbit will not stop a deer, and our deer proof garden and rabbit proof garden guides cover animal-proof fencing in detail. Check your local rules before you build: many areas have limits on fence height, especially at the front of a property, and a fence on a boundary may need agreement with a neighbour. Check your local extension service or local authority if you are unsure of the rules in your area.
Fence types and materials
Wooden panel fences are the most common garden fence: they give privacy, they look good, and they are relatively easy to repair panel by panel. Close-board fences, made from overlapping vertical boards, are stronger and give better privacy than lap panels, and they cope better with wind. Picket fences give a traditional look and mark a boundary without blocking light or views, but they give little privacy and will not keep small animals out. Post-and-rail fences suit large gardens and rural plots: they are cheap and open, but they give no privacy and no protection against small animals. Wire mesh fences, including welded mesh and chain link, are practical for keeping animals out and for supporting climbing plants, but they give no privacy unless combined with planting. Living fences — hedges — give privacy, shelter wildlife, and improve over time, but they take years to grow and need regular trimming. A mixed approach often works best: a fence for the boundary, with hedging or climbing plants in front of it to soften it and add wildlife value.
Height, posts and gates
Height matters, and it is worth getting right the first time. A fence of about 1.8 metres is the usual height for privacy in a back garden, where rules allow it, while a lower fence of about 1 metre suits a front garden where you want to mark the boundary without blocking the view. A fence for deer needs to be much taller, and a fence for rabbits needs to be buried at the base — see our deer proof and rabbit proof guides for the details. Posts are the part of a fence that fails first: use sturdy, treated timber posts or metal posts, set them firmly in the ground, and make sure they are deep enough that wind cannot lever them out. A fence is only as strong as its posts, and a row of good panels on weak posts will blow over in the first strong wind.
Gates deserve as much thought as the fence. A gate should be wide enough for a wheelbarrow, sturdy enough to last, and fitted with hinges and a latch that work well. A gate that drags on the ground, sags, or will not latch is a daily annoyance, and it is the part of a fence that gets used most. Fit a gate with a diagonal brace to stop it sagging, and check the hinges and latch each year. If the gate is the main entrance to the garden, make it welcoming: a well-made gate sets the tone for the whole garden.
Building and maintaining a fence
Building a fence is a bigger job than it looks, and it is worth planning carefully. Mark the line of the fence, check that it is on your boundary, and talk to your neighbour before you start — a fence built without agreement can cause a dispute that lasts years. Set the posts first, level and plumb, and leave them to set firmly before you fit the panels or boards. Work in dry weather, keep the fence level along its length, and step it down a slope rather than trying to follow the ground exactly. Wear gloves and eye protection, and get help with heavy panels and posts — lifting them alone is a common cause of back injury. If the job is large, hiring a professional fencer is often good value, because they have the tools and experience to do it quickly and well.
Maintenance keeps a fence standing for years. Check it each spring and autumn for loose posts, rotten boards, rusted fixings and sagging gates, and repair small problems before they become large ones. Treat wooden fences with a suitable preservative every few years, and keep soil, compost and plants away from the base of the wood, because damp soil rots timber. Trim climbing plants so they do not pull a fence down with their weight, and keep hedges from pushing a fence over. A fence that is checked yearly and repaired promptly will last far longer than one that is ignored until it falls over.
Fencing and the garden
A fence changes the garden it encloses. A solid fence creates shelter, which helps tender plants grow, but it also creates shade, and the strip of ground along a north-facing fence may be too shady for sun-loving crops. Use that shade for leafy greens, ferns and shade-tolerant plants, and use the sunny side of a south-facing fence for tomatoes, beans and other sun-lovers trained up a trellis. A fence is also a growing surface: climbing roses, clematis, honeysuckle, peas and beans can all be trained up a fence, turning a boundary into a productive and beautiful part of the garden. Our guides for growing peas and growing tomatoes cover training climbing crops, and small space gardening covers vertical growing in detail.
Common mistakes
The most common fencing mistakes are building a fence without checking local rules or talking to a neighbour, using weak posts, building a solid fence in a very windy spot where it blows over, making a gate too narrow for a wheelbarrow, and neglecting maintenance until the fence falls down. Another is building a fence for one job — privacy, for example — and expecting it to do another, such as keeping deer out, which needs a much taller fence. Decide what the fence is for, check the rules, build it well with strong posts, and maintain it yearly. A good fence is a long-term investment in the garden, and it is worth doing properly.
Frequently asked questions
How high should a garden fence be?
For privacy in a back garden, about 1.8 metres is usual where rules allow it. For a front garden, about 1 metre is common. For keeping deer out, a fence needs to be much taller, and for rabbits it needs to be buried at the base. Check your local rules before you build, because height limits vary by area.
What is the best fence for a windy garden?
A fence with small gaps that lets some wind through is usually better than a solid fence in a windy spot, because a solid fence acts like a sail and can blow over. Close-board fencing with small gaps, or a fence combined with a hedge, breaks the wind without taking its full force. Strong posts, set firmly, matter more than the panels.
Do I need permission to build a garden fence?
It depends on where you live. Many areas allow a fence up to a certain height without permission, especially at the back of a property, but front fences and taller fences may need permission, and a fence on a boundary may need agreement with a neighbour. Check with your local authority before you build.
How do I stop a fence rotting at the base?
Keep soil, compost, mulch and plants away from the base of the timber, make sure water drains away from the fence, and treat the wood with a suitable preservative every few years. Use treated timber for posts, and set posts in a way that lets water drain away rather than pooling around them.
Can I grow plants up a fence?
Yes. Climbing roses, clematis, honeysuckle, peas, beans and many other plants grow well on a fence, and they turn a boundary into a beautiful and productive part of the garden. Fix a trellis or wires to the fence first, train the plants onto it, and trim them so their weight does not pull the fence down.