Companion planting for fruit is the old idea that some plants grow better together than apart — that a marigold under an apple tree, or comfrey around a plum, does more than fill a gap. Some of it is solid, practical gardening: flowers that attract pollinators and predators, plants that fix nitrogen, and ground cover that holds moisture and suppresses weeds. Some of it is folklore, and it is worth being honest about which is which. A companion plant will not cure a diseased tree, and no combination of neighbours replaces sun, water and good pruning. But the right companions make a fruit garden healthier, more beautiful and easier to manage, and they cost almost nothing to try.
The three jobs a companion plant can do for fruit are to attract the insects you want, to repel or confuse the insects you do not want, and to improve the soil. Flowers such as marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums and borage attract bees, which pollinate the fruit, and hoverflies and lacewings, which eat aphids. Herbs such as chives, garlic and mint are said to confuse pests with their scent, and there is some evidence that they help, though they are not a cure. Nitrogen-fixing plants such as clover and lupins feed the soil, and deep-rooted plants such as comfrey bring nutrients up from the subsoil and make an excellent mulch.
The companions that work best are the ones that do not compete with the fruit for water and light. A low ground cover under a tree is a companion; a tall, thirsty plant jammed against the trunk is a competitor. Keep companions outside the trunk's immediate circle, and keep them low, so they do not shade the fruit or steal its water. If you are unsure about a variety, a spray, or a diagnosis, check your local extension service — its advice is matched to your climate and soil.
Flowers that help fruit: marigolds, nasturtiums and borage
Marigolds are the classic fruit companion: they flower for months, they attract hoverflies and other beneficial insects, and their roots are said to suppress the nematodes that damage roots — the evidence is strongest for the French marigold, and it is worth planting them around strawberries and under fruit trees. Nasturtiums are a trap crop for aphids: the aphids prefer the nasturtium to the fruit tree, and you can pull the infested nasturtium and compost it, taking the aphids with it. They also attract bees and look beautiful sprawling under a tree. Borage is a bee magnet — its blue flowers are among the most attractive to bees of any garden plant — and it is said to improve the flavour of strawberries grown nearby, though the evidence for that is anecdotal. Calendula flowers for months, attracts hoverflies, and its petals are edible. All of these are annuals, so they cost little, they can be sown where you want them, and if they do not suit a spot, you simply do not sow them there next year. Our growing guides cover marigolds and nasturtiums in detail.
Herbs and alliums under fruit trees
Chives, garlic, onions and leeks planted around fruit trees are said to deter aphids and fungal disease with their scent, and there is some evidence that they reduce aphid numbers on apples and plums. They are low, they do not compete much for water, and they are useful in the kitchen, so they are a low-risk companion. Mint is often recommended, but it spreads aggressively and will take over a bed if it is not contained in a pot — plant it in a sunk pot under a tree, not in the open ground. Thyme and oregano make a low, drought-tolerant ground cover under trees in a sunny spot, and they attract bees when they flower. Lavender under a fruit tree looks beautiful and attracts bees, but it needs sun and sharp drainage, so it suits the sunny side of a tree in a dry climate better than a damp one. Comfrey is the most useful herbaceous companion of all: its deep roots bring up potassium and other nutrients, its leaves make a superb mulch or liquid feed, and it grows happily in the shade under a tree — but plant it where you want it to stay, because it is hard to move once established.
Nitrogen fixers and living mulch under fruit
Clover is the best living mulch for a fruit garden: white clover fixes nitrogen from the air, covers the ground so weeds cannot grow, holds moisture in the soil, and feeds bees when it flowers. Sow it under and around fruit trees and between berry rows, and mow it occasionally to keep it low. Lupins fix nitrogen too, and their tall flower spikes attract bees, but they are bigger and thirstier than clover. A green manure such as crimson clover or phacelia, sown under trees in autumn and cut down in spring, feeds the soil and protects it over winter. The rule for any living mulch is to keep it away from the trunk and the crown of the plant, where it can hold damp against the bark, and to keep it low so it does not compete for light. A living mulch is not a substitute for a compost mulch, and the two work well together — compost in spring, clover underneath all year.
Companions for berries, strawberries and grapes
Strawberries benefit from borage, which attracts bees and is said to improve their flavour, and from marigolds, which deter the nematodes that damage their roots. Onions and garlic planted between strawberry rows are said to deter slugs and fungal disease. Raspberries do well with tansy, which is said to deter the raspberry beetle, and with marigolds and garlic at the ends of the row. Blueberries want acidic soil, so their companions must tolerate acid: heathers, cranberries and lingonberries make a good acidic ground cover, and pine needles as a mulch suit them better than any companion plant. Grapes do well with hyssop, which is said to improve their growth, and with marigolds and nasturtiums at the base of the vine. Currants and gooseberries do well with marigolds and chives. The companion planting finder can help you check a combination before you plant it, and our growing guides cover the companions for strawberries and raspberries in detail.
Neighbours to avoid near fruit
Some plants are bad neighbours for fruit, and it is worth knowing them. Walnut trees are the worst: their roots release a chemical that inhibits the growth of many plants, including apples, pears and berries, so do not plant fruit near a walnut. Potatoes and tomatoes should not be planted near fruit trees or berries, because they share diseases — notably the wilts that attack strawberries and raspberries — and they are hungry plants that compete for water and nutrients. Fennel is said to inhibit the growth of many plants and is best kept on its own. Tall, thirsty plants such as sunflowers and corn will shade fruit and steal its water if they are planted too close. And any plant that needs the same water and light as the fruit, planted right against the trunk, is a competitor rather than a companion. Keep the circle under the canopy clear of anything tall or greedy, and put the companions at the edge of the canopy, not against the trunk.
Designing a fruit guild: putting it together
A fruit guild is a small planting designed around a tree: the tree in the centre, a nitrogen fixer such as clover underneath, a deep-rooted nutrient accumulator such as comfrey at the edge, a pest-confusing herb such as chives or garlic, and a pollinator flower such as marigold or borage. It is a useful way to think about companions, because it reminds you that the companions have jobs, not just looks. Start with one guild around one tree, and see what works in your soil and climate before you plant guilds around every tree. Keep it simple: clover as a ground cover, comfrey at the dripline, chives near the trunk, and marigolds at the sunny edge will cover most of the jobs, and you can add to it over the years. Keep a note of what you planted and what happened, because companion planting is local knowledge — what works in one garden may not work in another, and your own notes are worth more than any list.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best companion plant for fruit trees?
There is no single best one, but a combination works well: white clover as a ground cover, comfrey at the dripline for nutrients, chives or garlic near the trunk, and marigolds at the sunny edge for beneficial insects.
Do marigolds really help fruit?
French marigolds attract hoverflies and other beneficial insects, flower for months, and their roots are said to suppress root nematodes. They are a low-cost, low-risk companion for strawberries and fruit trees.
What should I not plant near fruit trees?
Avoid walnut trees, which inhibit many plants, and potatoes and tomatoes, which share diseases with strawberries and raspberries. Keep tall, thirsty plants away from the trunk.
Can I plant comfrey under a fruit tree?
Yes — comfrey is one of the best fruit companions. Its deep roots bring up nutrients, its leaves make an excellent mulch, and it grows well in shade. Plant it where you want it to stay, because it is hard to move.
What grows well with strawberries?
Borage, which attracts bees, marigolds, which deter root nematodes, and onions or garlic between the rows. Keep companions low so they do not shade the berries.
Companion planting for fruit is a low-cost experiment with real benefits: more bees, fewer aphids, better soil and a more beautiful garden. Start with marigolds, clover and comfrey around one tree, and let your own garden tell you what works. Use the companion planting finder to check combinations, and see the growing guides for the companions of each fruit.