Fall is one of the best times of year to transplant, for the same reason it is one of the best times to plant: the soil is still warm, the air is cool, and plants can put their energy into roots instead of leaves. A shrub, perennial or small tree moved in fall has weeks to settle in before winter, and it will be established and ready to grow strongly in spring. A plant moved in the heat of summer, by contrast, struggles to keep its leaves alive while its roots are damaged, and it often fails. Fall transplanting rewards patience and preparation, and it punishes rushing.
The skill of fall transplanting is in the preparation, the lifting, and the aftercare. Prepare the new hole before you lift the plant, so it spends as little time as possible out of the ground. Lift with as large a root ball as you can manage, keeping soil around the roots. Replant at the same depth, water thoroughly, and mulch. Do all of that, and most hardy plants will transplant well in fall. Skip any of it, and the odds drop sharply. If you are unsure whether a particular plant can be moved in fall, check your local extension service.
Which plants to transplant in fall
Most hardy perennials, shrubs, small trees and roses transplant well in fall, once they are dormant or nearly dormant. Perennials that have finished flowering and are dying back are ideal candidates, since they have little top growth to support while their roots re-establish. Deciduous shrubs and trees moved after leaf fall settle well, and evergreen shrubs can be moved in early fall, while the soil is still warm enough for their roots to grow. Spring-flowering bulbs that need dividing, such as daffodils, are lifted and replanted in fall. Our guides to growing tulips and growing daffodils cover bulb lifting and replanting.
Vegetable seedlings raised for a fall harvest, such as brassicas, lettuce and leeks, are transplanted in early fall, while the weather is still mild enough for them to establish. Our fall vegetable care guide covers fall vegetable transplanting, and our fall seed starting guide covers raising the seedlings. Do not transplant tender plants in fall, since they will not survive frost, and do not move plants that are in full flower or fruit, since the shock will make them drop their flowers or fruit. Large, established trees are a job for a professional, not a home gardener, and they are usually moved in winter by specialists.
When to transplant in fall
Time fall transplanting so the plant has several weeks to root before the ground freezes. In cold zones, that means early fall, soon after plants go dormant. In mild zones, transplanting can continue into late fall and even early winter. As a rough guide, aim to finish transplanting at least four to six weeks before the ground is expected to freeze, so roots have time to grow into the surrounding soil. Use the frost date calculator to find your average first frost, and remember that these are averages and ranges only. The zone 5 fall gardening and zone 8 fall gardening guides give zone-specific timing.
Transplant on a cool, cloudy, calm day if you can, since hot sun and wind dry out exposed roots quickly. Avoid transplanting in the middle of a dry spell unless you can water thoroughly afterwards, and avoid transplanting into wet, waterlogged soil, which compacts and damages roots. Water the plant well the day before you move it, so the soil holds together around the roots and the plant is not stressed by drought on top of the move.
How to lift and replant
Prepare the new hole first. Dig it wider than the root ball, but no deeper than the root ball, since planting too deep is one of the most common causes of transplant failure. Loosen the bottom and sides of the hole, mix compost into the soil you removed, and water the hole if the soil is dry. Our fall soil preparation guide explains how to prepare a planting hole, and our composting basics guide explains the compost to use.
Lift the plant with as large a root ball as you can manage. Water it first, then dig a circle around the plant, wider than you think you need, and work the spade under the root ball, levering it out gently. Keep the soil on the roots, wrap the root ball in sacking or a tarp if you need to carry it, and do not leave it exposed to sun or wind. Cut back the top growth by about a third if the plant is large, to balance the loss of roots, but do not cut it back hard. Replant at the same depth as before — the soil mark on the stem shows the old level — backfill with the compost-mixed soil, firm gently, and water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Stake tall plants if wind is a problem, but remove the stake in spring so the plant grows strong on its own.
Aftercare: watering, mulching and watching
Watering after transplanting matters more than anything else. Water thoroughly at planting, then water whenever the soil is dry until the ground freezes, since a transplanted plant cannot draw water from soil its roots have not yet reached. Our fall watering guide covers watering through fall, and our watering calculator gives a starting amount. Mulch around the plant after watering, keeping mulch a few inches from the stem, to hold moisture and protect roots from freeze-thaw cycles — see our fall mulching guide and mulch types guides.
Do not feed a newly transplanted plant with strong fertiliser in fall, since feeding pushes soft growth that frost damages; compost in the planting hole is enough. Our fall fertilizing guide explains why. Watch the plant over the following weeks: wilting, yellowing leaves or failure to settle usually mean it needs more water, not more feed. If the plant looks stressed, water it and shade it if the sun is strong, and be patient — many transplants look unhappy for a few weeks and then recover in spring. If a transplant fails, note what went wrong and try again with a larger root ball and better aftercare.
Transplanting perennials, shrubs and vegetables
Perennials are the easiest fall transplants. Lift and divide overcrowded clumps in fall, replanting the healthy outer pieces and composting the woody centre, which rejuvenates the plant and gives you free plants for other beds. Water well and mulch, and they will be established by spring. Shrubs need a larger root ball and more care, and they should be pruned lightly at transplanting to balance root loss — see our fall pruning guide for the method. Roses transplant well in fall once dormant, and they should be pruned lightly and mulched thickly after moving; see growing roses for rose care.
Vegetable seedlings transplanted in early fall need hardening off first, since seedlings raised under cover are soft and will be damaged by wind and cold if they go straight outside. Harden them off over a week, putting them out for a few hours a day and bringing them in at night, then plant them in the evening or on a cloudy day, water them in well, and protect them with a row cover if frost threatens. Our fall frost protection guide covers covers and cloches. Space seedlings as the packet directs, since crowded transplants compete and grow slowly.
Common fall transplanting mistakes
The most common mistake is taking too small a root ball, which leaves the plant with too few roots to support its top growth. The second is planting too deep, which buries the stem and causes rot. The third is letting roots dry out during the move, by leaving the plant exposed to sun and wind. The fourth is forgetting to water after transplanting, so the plant goes into winter with dry roots. The fifth is feeding a new transplant with strong fertiliser, which burns roots and pushes soft growth. The sixth is transplanting too late, so the plant has no time to root before the ground freezes. And the seventh is moving a plant that is in flower or fruit, which wastes its energy and usually fails. Prepare the hole first, take a big root ball, replant at the same depth, water well, mulch, and do not feed.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best time to transplant in fall?
Early to mid fall, while the soil is still warm and at least four to six weeks before the ground is expected to freeze, so roots have time to establish. In mild zones, transplanting can continue later.
Which plants transplant best in fall?
Hardy perennials, deciduous shrubs and trees, roses, and vegetable seedlings for a fall harvest. Tender plants and plants in flower or fruit should not be moved in fall.
How big should the root ball be?
As large as you can manage. Dig a wide circle around the plant and lift with soil around the roots. A larger root ball gives the plant a far better chance of establishing.
Should I prune a plant when I transplant it?
Lightly, yes, for large shrubs and trees, to balance the loss of roots. Cut back the top by about a third, but do not cut it back hard. See our fall pruning guide for the method.
How much should I water a transplant in fall?
Water thoroughly at planting and whenever the soil is dry until the ground freezes. Transplanted plants need more water than established ones, since their roots have not yet spread. If you are unsure, check your local extension service.