Cherry tomatoes are the most rewarding tomato to start indoors: they fruit earlier than big tomatoes, produce by the handful all summer, and forgive beginner mistakes that would stall a beefsteak. One plant can keep a household in salads for months — which is why starting a few extra seedlings is rarely a mistake.

They are best started indoors, under cover, and planted out once the weather is right.

Cherry Tomatoes at a glance

Growing factor What this crop needs
Days to germination 7–14
Sowing method start indoors
Days to maturity 60–70
Soil pH 6.0–6.8
Spacing 24–36 inches
Sun full sun
Cold tolerance tender

When to start Cherry Tomatoes seeds indoors

Start Cherry Tomatoes indoors 6–8 weeks before your last frost. Sow too early and you get leggy, root-bound plants; sow too late and you lose weeks of the season. Start cherry tomato seed indoors 6–8 weeks before your last frost. In Zones 3–5 this head start is what makes ripe fruit possible at all; in Zones 6–7 it moves harvest into early summer; in Zones 8–9 a second sowing gives an autumn crop. In frost-free Zones 10–13, grow cherry tomatoes through the cooler months and give them afternoon shade in extreme heat. Check your local extension service for the best sowing dates where you live.

Zones 3–5: count back 6–8 weeks from your last frost and sow under lights. Zones 6–7: the same lead time. Zones 8–9: the window opens earlier, and autumn sowing is often possible. Zones 10–13 are frost-free, so sow in the cooler months and let heat set the calendar. Use the frost-date calculator and the seed-starting calculator for your dates, and check your local extension service when in doubt.

What you need

You do not need much: fine, sterile seed-starting mix (not garden soil), cell trays or small pots, a tray to catch water, a spray bottle or fine watering can, labels and a marker, and a clear lid or cling film to hold humidity until germination. A grow light is the one item that transforms results — a sunny windowsill can work, but lights give stocky seedlings instead of leggy ones. The grow-light calculator helps size a light for your setup, and the seed-spacing calculator shows how many plants fit your beds at 24–36-inch spacing. Check old packets with the seed-viability checker.

Step by step: starting Cherry Tomatoes seeds indoors

Cherry Tomatoes is a start-indoors crop — sown under cover, grown into sturdy transplants, and planted out once the weather is right.

  1. Fill your containers. Use cell trays or small pots of fine, sterile seed-starting mix, dampened before sowing — not garden soil.
  2. Sow at the right depth. Sow seed ¼ inch deep, two seeds per cell, thinning to the strongest later. Cheap insurance against a dud seed.
  3. Keep them warm. Cherry Tomatoes germinate in 7–14 days, but only if the compost is warm. A heat mat or warm spot makes a real difference — cold compost is the commonest reason seed fails.
  4. Cover to hold moisture. Put a clear lid or cling film over the tray until sprouts appear, then ventilate daily and remove it within a day or two. Stale, wet air is where damping off starts.
  5. Light from day one. The moment seedlings emerge, move them under a grow light 2–4 inches above, or to the brightest windowsill, rotating trays daily. Leggy seedlings are almost always a light problem.
  6. Thin to one per cell. Snip the weaker seedling at soil level. Pulling disturbs the roots of the one you keep.
  7. Pot on when ready. Once seedlings have two sets of true leaves and roots show at the drainage holes, move them into slightly larger pots and start a quarter-strength feed once a week.
  8. Harden off before planting out. See below — skipping it is the single biggest cause of transplant losses.

Check old seed first with the seed-viability checker — a damp-paper-towel test saves a tray of wasted weeks.

Light for seedlings

Light separates stocky seedlings from leggy ones. Give Cherry Tomatoes seedlings 14–16 hours of light a day, with the source just 2–4 inches above the plants — raise it as they grow. A south-facing windowsill can work in spring, but turn trays daily or seedlings lean towards the glass, and on cloudy weeks even a good window is not enough. Our sunlight calculator tells you how much direct sun a spot gets, and the grow-light calculator helps size a light. If seedlings stretch, the light is not close or bright enough.

Watering seedlings

Seedlings want steady moisture, not wet feet. Water from below where possible — stand the tray in a shallow dish for ten minutes and let the compost wick it up — because overhead watering knocks tiny seedlings flat and keeps stems wet, which invites damping off. Check trays daily, since seed compost dries fast under lights, and Cherry Tomatoes have high water needs — keep the compost evenly moist at all times. Mist the surface lightly after sowing until germination, then switch to bottom watering. As transplanting approaches, let compost dry slightly more between waterings to toughen seedlings up.

Hardening off

Hardening off is the week that decides whether seedlings thrive or sulk. Over 7–10 days before transplanting, put trays outside for a few hours a day in a sheltered spot, increasing time, sun and wind exposure each day, and bring them back in at night. Start with shade and still air; end with a full day outside if temperatures allow. Seedlings that go straight from a warm room to open ground get sunscald, windburn or a cold check that sets them back for weeks. Cherry Tomatoes are tender — no frost tolerance at all, and even a light chill can check growth. Do not rush this step, and bring trays in if frost threatens.

Transplanting outdoors

Transplant on a cloudy day or in the evening, when the sun will not immediately stress seedlings. Water the trays an hour before, dig holes at the final spacing of 24–36 inches, and set each seedling at the same depth it was growing. Tomatoes are the exception: bury the stem up to the first true leaves, since tomatoes root along the buried stem. Firm soil gently around the roots, water each plant in well, and mulch around (not against) the stems. Good companions for Cherry Tomatoes include marigolds, basil, onions, lettuce. Watch for aphids, hornworms, flea beetles, whiteflies in the first weeks — the pest-identifier helper can help name anything you find. Water daily for the first week while roots establish.

Common problems and fixes

Problem Likely cause Fix
Leggy seedlings Too little light Lower lights and give 14–16 hours a day.
Slow growth indoors Cool room Tomatoes want warmth — keep seedlings above 18°C (65°F).
Damping off Soggy compost Water from below and improve airflow.
Fruit cracking later on Uneven watering Keep soil evenly moist once plants are outside; mulch helps.

Leggy seedlings

Too little light is the usual culprit. Lower lights and give 14–16 hours a day. If badly affected, re-sow — a fresh sowing usually overtakes a struggling seedling within two weeks.

Slow growth indoors

Cool room is the usual culprit. Tomatoes want warmth — keep seedlings above 18°C (65°F). If badly affected, re-sow — a fresh sowing usually overtakes a struggling seedling within two weeks.

Damping off

Soggy compost is the usual culprit. Water from below and improve airflow. If badly affected, re-sow — a fresh sowing usually overtakes a struggling seedling within two weeks.

Frequently asked questions

How many cherry tomato plants do I need?

Usually just 1–2 per person. A single healthy plant can produce hundreds of fruit over the season.

Do cherry tomatoes need staking?

Yes — they are vigorous indeterminate vines that grow tall. Plan for a tall stake or cage at transplanting time, not later.

How long until cherry tomatoes ripen?

About 60–70 days from transplanting, and they are often the first tomatoes to ripen in the garden.

Why are my cherry tomato seedlings leggy?

Too little light. Keep lights 2–4 inches above the seedlings, 14–16 hours a day.

Can cherry tomatoes grow in pots?

Very well — a large pot (at least 5 gallons) with a stake suits them, and pots warm up faster in spring.

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