Water your Monstera Deliciosa (Monstera deliciosa) every 1–2 weeks, letting the top 2–3 inches of soil dry out between waterings. That is the short answer: check the soil first, and water when the soil tells you to, not because a particular day of the week has arrived.
Monstera Deliciosa is the big, bold monstera: huge, glossy leaves that split and develop fenestrations as they mature, on thick stems that climb by aerial roots. A mature plant is a genuine floor plant, and its large pot holds a lot of mix — which means the surface can look dry while the lower half is still wet.
Monstera Deliciosa at a glance
| Care factor | What this plant needs |
|---|---|
| Botanical name | Monstera deliciosa |
| Light | bright indirect |
| Water | every 1–2 weeks; let top 2–3 inches of soil dry |
| Humidity | moderate to high |
| Temperature | 65–85°F |
| Repotting | every 2–3 years |
| Pet safety | toxic to cats and dogs |
How to check whether it needs water
Push your finger 2–3 inches into the potting mix: if the soil at that depth feels damp, wait; if it feels dry, water. Check in two or three spots, because soil dries unevenly — the side facing the window dries first and the centre of the root ball dries last. Never judge by the surface alone: the top can look bone dry while the roots below are still sitting in damp mix.
Because the pot is usually large, the finger test matters more than the calendar here: push your finger a full 2–3 inches down, and check in two or three spots around the plant, not just at the edge. The centre of a big root ball dries slowest. If you use a moss pole, note that the pole itself dries out faster than the pot, so a dry pole does not mean the soil needs water.
A moisture meter pushed halfway down the pot removes the guesswork in larger pots, and so does the weight of the pot — lift it just after watering, then again a few days later. A pot that feels surprisingly light needs water even if the surface still looks dark. Our watering calculator can give you a starting point for your pot size.
Watering through the seasons
Monstera Deliciosa grows in spring and summer and rests in autumn and winter, and its thirst follows that rhythm: in the growing season it uses water faster and you will water at the shorter end of the every 1–2 week range.
In spring and summer, when new leaves are unfurling and fenestrations are forming, a deliciosa in bright indirect light can need water at the shorter end of the range — closer to every week. In winter, growth slows sharply and the same plant may go two weeks or more between waterings, especially in a cool room.
In winter, growth nearly stops and the same pot that dried in a week in July can take two weeks or more to dry in January. The danger in winter is cold, wet soil — water sitting in a cold pot is what rots roots. Keep the plant in its 65–85°F comfort range, away from cold windows and draughts.
What changes how often you water
Pot, light, humidity and temperature change the interval more than anything else. A small pot dries far faster than a large one, terracotta dries the mix faster than plastic or glazed ceramic, and a chunky, bark-heavy mix drains and dries faster than dense, peat-based soil. A plant in bright indirect light uses water steadily, while the same plant in a dim corner grows slowly and the soil stays wet far longer — and Monstera Deliciosa likes moderate to high humidity, which slows evaporation and stretches the interval.
Pot size dominates the timing for this plant. A deliciosa in a 25 cm (10 inch) pot or larger holds moisture for much longer than a young plant in a small pot, so the bigger the plant, the more important the finger test becomes. Terracotta dries the mix out noticeably faster than plastic or glazed ceramic, and a chunky, bark-heavy mix drains and dries faster than dense peat-based soil.
Signs of overwatering
Overwatering is the most common way to kill a Monstera Deliciosa, and it is almost always a watering-too-often problem rather than a watering-too-much-at-once problem: the soil stays wet, air is pushed out of the mix, and the roots suffocate and rot. The data lists these problems for this plant: yellow leaves (overwatering or poor drainage); brown leaf edges (low humidity or salts in water); no fenestrations (not enough bright light or young plant).
Yellow leaves — especially lower, older leaves turning yellow — are the classic first sign, and the data lists yellow leaves from overwatering or poor drainage as this plant's top problem. Soft, dark stems, a musty smell from the soil, and leaves that yellow and drop in quick succession point to root rot, which follows when the soil stays soggy.
A musty or sour smell from the soil, fungus gnats around the pot, and leaves that feel soft and limp on wet soil are further signs. If you catch it early, stop watering and let the pot dry out; if the roots are soft and dark, cut away the rotted roots and repot in fresh, dry, free-draining mix.
Signs of underwatering
Underwatering is less dangerous than overwatering, because a thirsty plant usually recovers from a good soak. The first sign is drooping: leaves go limp and lose their gloss. Next come brown, crispy leaf edges and tips, older leaves yellowing and dropping, and soil shrinking away from the sides of the pot.
Underwatered deliciosa leaves droop, lose their gloss, and develop brown, crispy edges — the brown leaf edges the data flags as a problem, caused by low humidity or salts in water, also appear when the plant is repeatedly left too dry. New leaves may emerge smaller and without fenestrations, which the data links to not enough bright light or a young plant, but chronic thirst makes it worse.
To revive it, water thoroughly until water runs from the drainage holes — or stand the pot in a basin of water for twenty minutes if the mix has shrunk and water is running around the edges. Then return to checking the soil and watering deeply when the top is dry, rather than watering little and often.
How to water it properly
When the soil check says it is time, water thoroughly: pour slowly and evenly until water runs freely from the drainage holes, then empty the saucer so the plant never sits in standing water. Bottom watering works too — stand the pot in a few centimetres of water for fifteen to twenty minutes, then let it drain — and it is useful when the mix has dried out or you want to keep water off delicate leaves. Either way, the pot must have drainage holes, and use room-temperature water, since very cold water can shock tropical roots and hard tap water leaves salts that brown the leaf edges. Our humidity and temperature checker can tell you whether your room suits this plant.
Frequently asked questions
Can I water my Monstera Deliciosa on a fixed weekly schedule?
No — use the soil, not the calendar. Every 1–2 weeks is the average, but a warm, bright room in July and a cool, dim room in January are different worlds. Check the top soil before every watering, and water when it is dry.
How do I know if I have overwatered my Monstera Deliciosa?
Check the soil first: if it is wet and the leaves are yellowing, soft or dropping, overwatering is the likely cause. The plant's listed problems are yellow leaves (overwatering or poor drainage); brown leaf edges (low humidity or salts in water); no fenestrations (not enough bright light or young plant). Let the pot dry out completely and check the roots for soft, dark, rotted sections if several leaves yellow at once.
Should I mist my Monstera Deliciosa instead of watering it?
No. Misting wets the leaves for a few minutes and does almost nothing for the roots, which is where the plant drinks. Monstera Deliciosa likes moderate to high humidity — a humidifier or a pebble tray helps far more than misting, and wet leaves can invite fungal problems.
Can I bottom-water my Monstera Deliciosa?
Yes. Stand the pot in a few centimetres of room-temperature water for fifteen to twenty minutes, then lift it out and let it drain fully. Do not leave it standing in water for hours, and still top-water occasionally to flush salts out of the mix.
Why is my Monstera Deliciosa not developing fenestrations?
Fenestrations come with maturity and light, not with water. A young plant, or one kept in too little light, grows solid heart-shaped leaves. Give it bright indirect light, keep watering steady — every 1–2 weeks, letting the top 2–3 inches dry — and the splits appear as the plant matures. Overwatering will not speed this up; it will only yellow the leaves.